Delicious, not pretentious; delicate and light without being too precious: a Sunday morning in the NoHo Arts District gets a boost from a daring desayuno (brunch ), at the region’s handsome hideaway, Bow & Truss.
Behind tall Game of Thrones-style gates, the generous porch of the sunshine-swept Spanish taverna welcomes into a simple space adorned with rich, rustic details. An open kitchen peeks invitingly from beyond a sleek contemporary bar, both housed under exposed wooden beams above. The former auto body garage’s new found grace is attributed to the keen eye of architect Beth Holden, from New Theme studio in West Hollywood. She collaborated with the restaurant’s proprietors at Knitting Factory Entertainment, already responsible for the fabulousness called The Federal Bar, around the corner on Lankershim. Both are a haven for innovative cocktails and craft beers, with Bow & Truss featuring a modern Spanish-inspired tapas menu and plates perfect for sharing.
Chorizo and Cotija Stuffed Waffles meant for two gave us plenty to enjoy. The savory waffles were an ideal consistency, with a light crunch. Chorizo sausage can be grainy, greasy, and hard to manage, but the perfect proportion of waffles to chorizo meant that the meal never suffered from sogginess. A epicurean maple syrup with just the right amount of chipotle bite really brought them to life. The soft and salty cotija cheese crumbles were a nice contrast. In addition to a selection of stuffed waffles, the brunch menu offers crepes, breakfast tacos, and assorted breakfast entrees—all at ten dollars or less.
Sweetly spun mimosas alongside made-from-scratch sangria and a house mix Bloody Mary complete the bold brunch with a twist. The Mimosa de Manzana, a ‘Spanish Style’ mimosa, featured fortified Pedro Ximenez sherry, organic apple juice, roasado, and an apple slice. The crisp and refreshing apple essence was a nice change of pace from the traditional mimosa’s tartness. Peppercorn infused vodka, married with their fresh homemade Bloody Mary base, made for a beverage with bang.
A great central location for experiencing all that the Arts District has to offer, but lavished with a buffer from its bustling section of Magnolia Boulevard (the aforementioned Winterfell wall), Bow & Truss’ appealing indoor/outdoor ambiance is on par with its attentive service and fulfilling, fresh approach to cuisine.
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