This year’s opening night was pregnant with anticipation as couture designer Randolph Duke presented his first runway show in seven years. The main stage at Smashbox Studios was draped in black, a blank slate for the famed designer whose spring collection would announce the rebirth of red-carpet couture.
The fashion industry hasn’t seen a Randolph Duke runway collection in close to a decade. After a debilitating sexual-harassment lawsuit fed him to the tabloids and cemented his hotheaded reputation in 2000, his financial backers Peter and Juliana Holt pulled out, forcing Duke to close his New York–based label.
In 2001, the red-carpet mogul signed on with the Home Shopping Network where he was able to design more freely. Two years later, as Duke was settling into a comfortable groove, he was diagnosed with prostate cancer. He underwent radical surgery, beat the cancer, and by 2004 his HSN line was so successful that he began building his dream pad in the Hollywood Hills.
The now-complete modern masterpiece features glass walls and white pebbled indoor-outdoor floors, and is nestled in a nursery of cacti, long grasses, fruit, and palm trees. Duke drew from his surroundings to inspire this year’s spring trends. He refered to the appropriately titled Fade to Green collection as “glam-organic,” which embraces soft lines, bold neutrals, and elaborate necklines.
Duke opened the show with metallic-tulle-veiled ivory silk separates pleated into shapes that resembled palm fronds. He updated the black cocktail dress and gown for spring, softening lines with floral shapes outlined with pearl trims and paillette embroidery.
Pavé beaded gowns were layered with beaded ivory and black silk plissé. Palm prints hid beneath transparent tissue silk layers, or rested over metallic-foiled jerseys. Although known for form-fitting gowns, Duke successfully displayed billowing shapes and flowing trains. Rouching at the back of the gowns lent tasteful shape to the female form.  
Duke transitioned into a set of earthy tones of stone, graphite, and quartz in a variety of dresses and gowns. Travertine and bronze tissue lame gowns veiled with vintage-beaded silk tulle fluttered down the runway. He embroidered limestone paillettes onto a linearly pleated silk chiffon top and empire gown.

Navy silk taffeta boasted degrade-beaded tulle insets that mimicked yucca leaves. Bold silk crepe and faille suits seemed reminiscent of Duke’s home-shopping collections, but Duke made a quick turnaround with his final set of couture gowns, for which he is famous.
Duke showed silk taffeta cuffed shorts, capris and jackets in iridescent agave blues, aloe greens, golden flax, and palm yellow hues before introducing the finale pieces. Similarly colored organic pearls and abalone accessories graced the necklines of metallic silk crepe, chiffon, and jersey. He finished with elegant silk taffeta gowns in palm-pleated variations and tulle-veiled colors, and a crystal-beaded citrine illusion gown.  
As the models gathered around the opening of the runway, Duke graciously appeared from backstage. The audience erupted into applause and welcomed Duke back to the runway with a warm standing ovation.
Duke is optimistic that he will continue to show each season, but he is a veteran of the industry, and knows that fashion is a business. He needs financial support if he plans to reclaim his line, but by the looks of his Spring 2008 show, he shouldn’t have much trouble.

Randolph Duke

All photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

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