For Spring 2009, Vera Wang unveiled an aurora borealis of layered silk organza camisoles and hand-painted duchess dresses. Her signature leggings were given a techno upgrade for spring and in this collection, the jewels weren’t the only embellishment making a sparkling statement, with mosaic necklines, panels, and belts reflecting light up and down the catwalk. No one delivers understated-elegance better than Vera Wang; she is the queen of layering silk brocades with the most exquisite statement jewelry. This season we saw a mingling of motorcycle chains and mosaics for a look that was modern without being stark, contemporary without feeling trite, and elegant while remaining relatable, relevant, and accessible. Her models sauntered out in 41 casually chic looks from the backdrop of a mosaic crystal sculpture to White Williams’ rendition of Bow Wow Wow’s 80’s cover classic “I Want Candy”.

I know a girl who's tough but sweet
She's so fine, she can't be beat
She's got everything that I desire
Sets the summer sun on fire

I want candy, I want candy
I want candy, I want candy

Go to see her when the sun goes down
Ain't no finer girl in town
You're my girl, just what the doctor ordered
So sweet, you make my mouth water

I want candy, I want candy
I want candy, I want candy

According to the program notes, the Vera Wang Spring 2009 Collection celebrates all the vibrancy and naiveté of Niki de Saint Phalle, a woman and artist of extraordinary imagination, individuality, and spirit. From clean sculptural shapes and narrow body-conscious silhouettes to layers of sheer, billowy wisps of color; these clothes represent a playful, yet artful mélange of slips, basketball t’s, over-skirts, and cover-ups. Fabrics range from “ultra light”- techno blends, gazar and stretch taffeta and twill, to lurex printed silks, basket weaves, and thin hand-stitched organzas. This season, the palette is predominantly black, blush, and grey with accents of orange, marigold, violet, and celadon.

Ornamentation translates into floral and “geometric” color blocked prints, hand-painted duchess as well as strips and panels of mosaic-cut sequins, and colorful abstract beaded patterns. These decorative elements provide a deliberate counterpoint to the simplicity of the shapes. Crystal “motorcycle” chains of every color and dimension on bags, belts, necklaces and bracelets; hand-cut glass beads in coral, yellow, black, and ivory, and enormous cameos strung on crystal pearls, all add to the fun and nonchalance of the collection, as do tissue-thin sweaters in heather solids, and subdued stripes.

This collection, “postman” bags of brown leather and fabric with delicate bronzed floral frames, and “girly” handbags of canvas, techno twill, painted duchess, and stingray adorn the clothes with irreverent mixes of ivory and ebony resin frames and heavy metal and/or crystal chains. “Elfin” cuffed flats and stiletto heels as well as high “Nurse Ratched” sling-back platforms add to the youthful spirit, as do painted eye-glasses in exaggerated shapes with “Blindmen” blackout lenses.

Architectural, yet feminine, playful yet sophisticated, this collection reflects the optimism and orchestrated cacophony that defined Niki de Saint Phalle. Perhaps they are kindred spirits. Ms. de Saint Phalle was said to have rejected the staid, conservative values of her family, which dictated domestic positions for wives and particular rules of conduct. Ms. Wang also eschewed her parents’ predilection to enter the business world, she chose instead to pursue more creative interests early on competing as a figure skater before segueing into the industry as a former Vogue editor and going on to conquer the fashion world and launching her eponymous bridal line which would cement the foundation for her lifestyle brand. The influence Niki de Saint Phalle’s work with sculptural elements, diverse materials, and collages were interpreted via mosaic neckpieces and waistlines; an architectural inspiration also takes form here with a layered silhouette of cutaway panels, pleated folds and tucks; the moody, organic color palette also lends itself well to the painter’s sensibility, as do the abstract florals and hand-painted coats and dresses.

My favorites from the Vera Wang Spring 2009 Collection included: the black cut-away suit over yellow silk organza paneled camisole with a black cameo necklace strung on crystal pearls and black crystal motorcycle chain necklace; a celadon organza t-shirt with crystal bib over black pleated skirt with olive duchess handbag; the black embroidered horsehair sleeveless jacket over black silk organza stretch tank over forest techno legging with electric blue crystal motorcycle chain necklace; an olive and yellow abstract floral top with a panel of mosaic-cut sequins over black stretch cotton leggings and stingray handbag with crystal motorcycle chain; the black and electric blue hand-painted duchess shift dress over lavender silk organza slip and mosaic square sunglasses; a blush silk organza over silver and teal mosaic-cut sequin dress with abstract mosaic beaded belt and yellow hand-cut glass bead necklace; and the blush opaque slip dress over blush silk organza mosaic cut with gold crystal leaf necklace and brown leather postman bag.

Statement jewelry remained very strong this season, no longer a trend, these larger-than-life pieces have become more of a necessity—no fashion wardrobe will be complete without an eye-catching, neck or wrist adornment. I must admit there is something very regal and decadent about a large piece of jewelry. I always feared that with my petite frame, these large pieces would wear me and overwhelm my small stature, but I’ve learned that it’s all about proportion. Finding one statement piece and keeping the other items at a minimum or at least a smaller scale. A statement necklace will instantly elevate a simple crewneck cotton or jersey tee. This is yet another form of mixing high and low or formal with informal, blurring conventional sartorial lines, so that nothing ever feels too precious, and even the simplest separates are made to feel more elegant.

While most of these looks would translate quite well for day, the separates are versatile enough to shift from day to night with ease. A sense of individuality is encouraged by this style of dressing, combining and layering unconventional fabrications ( horsehair, lurex, and techno for Spring) with romantic design elements ( cut-aways, inlaid mosaics, and hand-panting) and pops of unexpected color ( orange, yellow, and electric blue) and abstract prints. With so many [potential] variations, shapes, colors, and textures, your ensembles will hardly feel ubiquitous or homogenized. This runway presentation needs no translation, or dilution, the pieces read and wear perfectly for an everyday look that is effortlessly chic. What I always enjoy most about Vera Wang is how fresh her approach is. She has a modern aesthetic that is forward-looking and thought-provoking without being futuristic and too far removed; these looks take us in a new direction without ever meandering off the fashion precipice.

Images provided courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Newsgroup.

For additional information, please visit http://www.verawang.com/

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