Opening look

Alice Temperley, a London based designer, launched her line in September of 2000 at London’s Fashion Week and quickly became a favorite worldwide.

By the time Temperley presented at New York’s Spring Fashion Week in 2006, she had already amassed an impressive roster of 150 retail stores (and counting), including Bergdorf Goodman and Selfridge’s.

Lime green dress and black dress with knee-high boots

Temperley is known for her signature dresses and knits, however she is taking a brave walk on the wild side with this fall’s ‘ Black Label’.  Temperley London's show was held at 7pm on Wednesday in the 'Tent' at Bryant Park (actually the show started an hour late). The Tent was packed with several hundred of fashions finest, reality TV stars and celebs. I spotted actress Joy Bryant and Julia Stiles in the front row. Ali Lohan (Lindsay’s little sis) managed to free herself from the photogs in time to run backstage. 

Silk black and white dress

The Tent’s lighting was faint; the runway was set in dark grey metallics with disco ball shiny drapes. The DJ kept the tunes to a mellow hum as we slowly filed into the tent. I managed to find a standing-room only spot on the top row near the stage. Nearly thirty minutes after entering the Tent, the lights dimmed & the DJ turned up the Sade-esk music accompanied by sounds of thunder, the show would finally begin. The music changed to upbeat disco tunes and 20 seconds later out struts the first model fitted in provocative black stretch leather pants, a fitted black shirt with layered ruffled sleeves, topcoat, and black stilettos; topped off by a cleverly slanted military hat. I was quite surprised as I expected the usual from Alice Temperley, pretty and uncomplicated, but we got strong and sexy. Temperley’s inspiration for the Black Label was military-chic in the style of Mata Hari, WWII’s most famous spy.

Military cap with black dress

And the models followed suit, walking with large strides as if off to war. The collection, 42 looks in total, hinted to Temperley’s darker side complete with feminine military jackets, thigh-high rocker boots, ruffled silk dresses in red, cream and lime green.

Gowns with garter belts

The show winded down as models wearing breezy butterfly winged dresses in rich jewel colors, including plum and vibrant emerald green, slowed their pace to allow the dress airtime. Temperley’s line was complemented by M.A.C. makeup artists using an intricate plate of pale rose and creamed coffee colored lips; pinkish cheeks and shiny eyes dotted with rose, brown and liquid gold. The look was complete with lots of black eyeliner and long lush lashes (false of course). The models hair was styled with the 70’s gypsy in mind, very long and parted down the middle, yet perfectly polished with a soft curl at the ends, soon to be another trend this fall.

Color block

I have to admit to being pleasantly surprised by the edge of this show. Temperley’s 2008 fall line was successful at replicating the danger and decadence of Hari’s era and today.

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