Tiptoeing towards a presidential election on the heels of the Games of the XXIX Olympiad in Beijing, designers shifted from one platform to the next with a convergence of dichotomic directions on the Spring 2009 runways. This season’s palette gave way to a spectrum of bright color bursts. There was a continuation of integrated masculine and feminine silhouettes carried over from previous seasons, but here the looks were softened by more romantic design details. Themes, inspirations, and influences were derivative of natural elements or artistic figures, such as literary characters and celebrated painters and sculptors. Statement jewelry remained very strong with nearly every collection showing oversized necklaces, earnings, stacked rings, and layered bracelets. The final days of summer solstice also brought a (rather) pronounced homage to the 80’s with bright neons accenting the collections and recordings or remixed covers from decades ago providing the soundtrack for many runway presentations. It’s somewhat ironic when you consider that the 80’s were a time of greed and excess, yet now we’re confronted with a plummeting stock market and consequential economic downturn.

(l) Reem Acra and (r) Carolina Herrera both showed elegant, ladylike looks

IMG, the global management and production firm that oversees the great undertaking that is New York Fashion Week, encouraged all those eligible to exercise their right to vote. The production powerhouse unveiled its Spring 2009 Season at Bryant Park with collateral and signage that underscored a presidential election year. With slogans like “Vote For Your Favorite Designer”; “Accessorize Democracy”; ”Fashion=Change”; “Electoral Couture”; “Don’t Blame Me, I Voted 4 Fashion”; “Wear Your Vote”; and “Fashion in 09”, there was a whole new level of fashion democratization being executed at the Tents last September. IMG’s Senior Vice President Fern Mallis outlined in her welcome letter that “ fashion is all about change”; this spirit was celebrated with the production of more than 80 shows, featuring presentations from emerging talents and veteran designers, alike.

Looks from two of America's biggest lifestyle brands (l) Michael Kors and (r) Vera Wang

For Spring 2009, the palette tended to be either very soft, with muted pastels or (by in large) an array of vibrant colors—fuchsias, corals, yellows, and greens, but no color was more predominant than blue. I think blue was such a strong color this season because it’s representative of certain emblematic and patriotic qualities. Blue is a loyalist color as in “red, white, and blue” during an election year; blue also projects a certain athleticism and allegiance; it’s a hue often found in school colors; the UC Systems are all blue and gold as is the University of Michigan, and then of course, there is Yale Blue. Blue is earnest, sincere, stable, and trustworthy. Perhaps it is in response to this uncertain economic era with impending financial crises and threats of a recession, worse yet a depression. In these tumultuous times of takeovers, mergers, and downsizing, blue is an idyllic color whether a hopeful sky, an upbeat electric, or a staid, dependable, tried-and-true navy.

The juxtaposition of bright colors, blues with greens and oranges with pinks is reminiscent of the Yves Saint Laurent’s Autumn-Winter 1965 d’apres Mondrian dresses that were reinterpreted in the 80’s and now once again but in a new silhouette with updated design treatments. Pops of unexpected color and prints in the form of neons, jewel tones, and ikat were playful and revitalized at DKNY’s vigentennial runway presentation. “ Neiman Marcus is very excited about color, especially, blues, inks, and indigo… There is great saturation of color, also with soft yellows, greens, and celadons,” said Ken Downing. “We are seeing bits of neon, but it’s subtle in the tubing or trim and it’s further subdued by a grey or black pairing.”

Designers turned the kaleidoscope of reflected light by pairing punches of cheerful and fanciful colors with classic neutrals. While we often saw bright colors, there were some notable exceptions of pale neutrals, like at Koi Suwannagate and Luca Luca. “We also saw a very sophisticated blend of colors such as the oyster, avocado, truffle, poppy and navy palette at Oscar de la Renta,” added Ultra HD’s Full Frontal Fashion co-host, Judy Licht. Brocades, jacquards, harlequins, and color-blocking were all quite strong this season while abstract and romantic prints (like those shown at Tracy Reese) had an impressionist quality. Patterns were sometimes pixilated, exaggerated, oversized, or slightly askew to breathe new life into old, familiar motifs; it felt at times like we were looking at the collections through rose-colored glasses.

(l) Tracy Reese was sweet and feminine while (r) Herve Leger was sex on heels

Overall there were more pants for Spring 2009 than we saw last year this time (For Spring 2008, dresses reigned supreme!) with the duality of masculine and feminine concepts carried over from recent seasons remaining a prevalent theme throughout many collections. Although dichotomy remained a strong influence this season, I could see the pendulum swinging more to a feminine side with whimsical accents. Embroidered necklines, kimono sleeves, and cinched waists held their own against boyfriend jackets, trench coats, and tuxedo-inspired separates. There was a hybrid of traditional and romantic elements at work with ruffles, peplums, and pleats both at the Carolina Herrera and Thuy Spring 2009 Collections, imbuing menswear-inspired pieces with more delicate nuances. Layering also continues to be a very strong trend, whether with separates, accessories, jewelry, or design details. If in past seasons, the neck, back, shoulders, or legs were the erogenous zones of choice; this season it was definitely the waist. This whittled-waist emphasis was evidenced by cincturing runway looks with (layered) belts, corsets, empire or high-waisted cuts. We consistently saw the waistline accentuated and raised, lengthening the torso and creating a more feminine silhouette, shaping and sculpting an hourglass figure.
 
“There were quite a few boyfriend jackets, while some pieces were very architectural.” asserted Judy Licht. “There were also a lot of jumpsuits and inside-outside zippers, as well…The season felt a bit schizophrenic, with loose voluminous, soft flowing silhouettes in some collections, while other runways were more minimalist.” Overall, most collections translated quite well; separates were versatile enough to shift seamlessly from day to night. Silk chiffon and satin are always popular for spring, but this season we saw a great deal of raffia (at Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, and Reem Acra.) At Vera Wang, we witnessed a heightened sense of individuality, encouraged by her refined style of combining and layering the unconventional ( horsehair, lurex, and techno.) With so many [potential] variations on shapes, colors, and textures, your ensembles will hardly feel ubiquitous or homogenized for spring. This runway presentation needs no translation, or dilution, the pieces read and wear perfectly for an everyday look that is effortlessly chic. What I always enjoy most about Vera Wang is how fresh her approach is. She has a modern aesthetic that is forward-looking and thought-provoking without being futuristic and too far removed; these looks take us in a new direction without ever meandering off the fashion precipice.

(l) Thuy debuted at Bryant Park this season and (r) DKNY marked its 20th anniversary

We continue to see convertible dressing (like at Calvin Klein) and transitional pieces. “ Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s Senior Vice President and Women’s Fashion Director, said ‘the Calvin Klein collection was museum-worthy,’ ” revealed Judy Licht. “With its architectural themes and free-flowing shapes that collapse flat for packing, they were like the Frank Gehry-designed InterActiveCorp Headquarters.” When we did see after-five attire, it was more cocktail frocks than evening gowns signaling a necessity for more practical dressing, a few more luncheons than galas on our social calendars next spring—perhaps in preparation for more modest times, when consumers will be tightening their purse straps for a handful of key investment purchases.

While in previous seasons, all that glittered was gold, with a prominent display of metallics, here we saw a different kind of sparkle take effect with embroideries, mosaics, and crystal treatments as shown at Vera Wang and Reem Acra. “We have also seen a Japanese influence with kimono sleeves this season,” intimated Ken Downing. All the collections seemed to embrace a “sisterhood sorority of femininity” celebrating the role of women today. The modern woman is a breadwinner, a business partner, a homemaker, and a caretaker. We can do it all and have it all. We’re independent, successful, imaginative, and creative. We lead very busy, demanding, accelerated lives. Even when we’re wearing a piece inspired by menswear (again, whether subconscious or intentional, I think this is an homage to YSL’s iconic 1966 Le Smoking) say an androgynous boyfriend or tuxedo jacket, or trench coat, the design details and paired silhouettes give the look a feminine approach, with ruffles, peplums, embroideries, appliqués, and ombré treatments.

(l) Zac Posen and (r) Diane von Fustenberg predominantly featured dresses

A trend that I thought would come and go remains the strongest of all— Statement Jewelry! For seasons, I eschewed bib necklaces, layered bracelets, and cocktail rings because with my 5’2” 100-pound frame I feared the dramatic pieces would overwhelm my petite stature. I, too, have finally succumbed, but my Elsa Peretti® Platinum Pave Bean still lies closest to my heart. I’ve learned that it’s all about proportion. Finding one statement piece and keeping the other items at a minimum or at least on a smaller scale. A statement necklace will instantly elevate a simple cotton crewneck or jersey tee. This is yet another form of mixing high and low, formal with informal, blurring conventional sartorial lines, so that nothing ever feels too precious, and even the simplest separates are made to feel more elegant.

 “Statement jewelry is the biggest trend of all and it is interpreted in all different ways. We saw this at Victoria Bartlett’s VPL, with necklaces fashioned out of cloth taking on a life on their on and [again] at Vera Wang with mosaic necklines and motorcycle chains,” added Judy Licht. I also saw this on the Marc by Marc Jacobs runway with his knotty necklaces. No longer a mere trend, these larger-than-life pieces have become a necessity—no fashion wardrobe will be complete without an eye-catching, neck or wrist adornment next spring!

Glamorous looks from (l) Pamella Roland and (r) Venexiana

Sources of inspiration shared one of a few common threads this season: (1) the reoccurring thematic elements found in nature like butterflies and feathers shown at Diane von Furstenberg and Koi Suwannagate; (2) more artistic references such as Kitty Fane from William Somerset Maugham’s The Painted Veil at Thuy, Alessandro Botticelli at Carolina Herrera, and Pierre-Auguste Renoir at Christian Cota; and (3) overall, collections possessed more of an ethereal quality to them. They were feminine, sexy, strong, confident, and winsome! Borrowing from natural elements often provides the greatest sources of inspiration, because they are consistently pure, impartial to socio-economic, climatic shifts. Despite a very strong influence of politics, (the race for President); athletics, (the Beijing Olympics); and economics (fledgling investment banks, a beleaguered and overleveraged housing market, and government bailouts)—many designers sought solace in more romantic themes. One thing’s for certain, spring 2009 will have us all sitting pretty and feeling feminine with a delicate accent or two—designers have made sure of that!

A special note of thanks to Ken Downing, Judy Licht, and Jeffrey Pattit.

Fore more information on Neiman Marcus, please visit, http://www.neimanmarcus.com/

For more information on Ultra HD’s Full Frontal Fashion, please visit, http://www.fullfrontalfashion.com/

For more in-depth coverage of the Spring 2009 Collections, please peruse our Style & Fashion Section.

Images provided courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Newsgroup.

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