I had been anxiously awaiting this moment for seasons to come, ever since I first discovered Ms. Suwannagate’s sculptural designs more than two years ago. Not even the inclement conditions of Tropical Storm Hanna could keep me away from the Koi Suwannagate Spring 2009 presentation. The designer unveiled 28 new looks from her eponymous line away from the hustle and bustle of the Bryant Park tents, opting for the downtown Bumble & Bumble venue. Nestled along a cobblestone pathway in New York’s Meatpacking District, a hotbed of burgeoning talent, set apart by innovation and individuality; the open loft space with its floor-to-ceiling windows and rough-hewn décor gave way to the perfectly ironic backdrop for Ms. Suwannagate’s romantic designs.

Stepping off the freight elevator, I was immediately welcomed by a staff armed with bottled waters and chocolate covered macaroons (the unofficial breakfast of fashionistas on the run…) Rows of benches allowed the audience to focus on the fashion at hand while the models sauntered through the open seating. The designer’s choice for music seemed to echo the forecast, with rumbling thunderclouds, rainfall, and bird calls.

The show’s program foretold an inspirational back story of the collection’s key style elements: dreamy butterfly and feather embellishments on silk and lightweight cashmere, accentuated with sparkling crystals. For the first time, Koi Suwannagate incorporated custom-designed prints with soft feather and contrasting butterfly motifs into her collection. The color palette further underscored this poetic inspiration, with one of the fairest palettes of the week in shades of ivory and silver grey punctuated with sparks of fuchsia and purple. Fabrications included cashmere, silk, organza, and linen which were embellished by feathers and Swarovski crystals. “Collaborating with designer, Koi Suwannagate, was a delight! Her intricate manipulation of our pearls and crystals, carefully set in her elegant designs capture the true light and luxury of CRYSTALLIZED™ Swarovski Elements,” noted Nadja Swarovski.

The clothes were ethereal with whimsical accents of feathers and butterflies. For those who do not view fashion as an art, I dare them to rebuke this maxim after viewing Ms. Suwannagate’s Spring 2009 collection. More than a simple pleat or tuck, she managed to cajole and mold her materials into folds of rosettes and wings that were simply too beautiful to deny. The grooming also reflected a stormy forecast with windswept hair and softer make-up. The eyes were encased in pink shadow and black liner, as though gently kissed by rose petals, while the mouth was left nude or given a pale pink tint.

According to her biography, Koi Suwannagate approaches her work through the prism of art. Each piece she designs is a completely unique, one-of-a-kind handmade garment, and reflects her own personal vision. "My signature style is to sculpt and shape each piece to enhance and beautify the natural contours of the female body, draped in a way that allows fluid movement and ultimate comfort. I choose to work almost exclusively with the finest cashmere, silk, and cotton, which adds an element of richness and superior softness that is the epitome of luxury and pure indulgence."

Mix in the rich color palette, including subtle tones and earthy hues, and the result is more than fashion, more than clothing, rather a timeless collectible that can be worn with confidence and joy for years to come. Koi Suwannagate collaborated with Phillip Lim by incorporating her beautiful hand-sculpted rose designs in 3.1 Phillip Lim’s Spring/Summer 2007 Collection. Most recently the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue acknowledged the designer’s talent with the nomination as finalist for the 2007 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award.

I have long been an admirer of Koi Suwannangate’s sculptural design aesthetic, celebrated for her carefully crafted knits, in particular, her use of recycled cashmere Whether picking up a piece at Barneys or uncovering a Phillip Lim collaboration at my favorite neighborhood consignment boutique, her unique sensibility is unrivaled. With her signature rosette molds, there is something so uplifting and enchanting about Ms. Suwannagate’s blithely dreamy, designs. The intricacy of her execution holds greater resonance when you consider that the beauty realized in these pieces is predicated on the simplicity of her themes and concepts; more often than not, a platform of natural elements such as the flowers we pick and butterflies we chase as children.

My favorite looks from the collection included: an ivory cashmere slip dress with an embroidered cashmere bib necklace; a silk blouse of sculpted rosettes atop a purple geometric-paneled linen skirt; a silk feather print dress with sheer silk overlay and sculpted feathers; a sculpted linen blouse with Swarovski crystal accents along the neckline paired with a butterfly print skirt; and a sleeveless dress with cascading silk butterflies. While the themes were soft and gentle, make no mistake this lithe designer packed a powerful punch with her wearable works of art!

Koi is sold at fine department stores and boutiques throughout the United States, Europe, and Asia.

For a stock list and additional information, please visit http://www.koisuwannagate.com/

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