Like works of art brought to life, the penthouse at 28 west 36th Street was transformed into a living museum, with 14 incredibly elegant looks from the Juan Carlos Obando Autumn-Winter 2008 collection on view. “Clothes are symbols that define the person, clothes not only protect us, but also give us strength to transform the ordinary into extraordinary. They should move and exist beyond boundaries, composed of elements that are timely, but timeless.” Even for those dispassionate naysayers who fail to see fashion as an art form, no one could deny Mr. Obando’s craftsmanship and execution, delivering one of the most beautiful collections of New York Fashion Week.

There’s something both intoxicating and awe-inspiring about his design aesthetic. His pieces are transformative. They’re so stunning that I didn’t want to look away; studying every design detail and accent—every sequin, every stud, every feather—but like being in a museum and captivated by a great piece of art and the story its artist yearns to tell, I thought of the influences, inspirations, the “ blood, sweat, and tears” that Mr. Obando poured into his collection. Admittedly, I am absolutely giddy at fashion week, eagerly anticipating new collections, trends, colors palettes, and innovative designs. With a rush of heightened excitement during the intimate presentation, I felt honored to have a first peek at this brilliant designer’s new line. It was as if someone had shared his most special, private, secrets with me.

Mr. Obando cites music and graphic arts as two of his biggest inspirations. Cornish electronic music artist Richard David James, better known as Aphex Twin, was referenced in the program notes as “an unpredictable yet compelling artist that uses everything from heart-attack paced jungle to classically minded electronic minimalism. Most of his work is a compendium of indecipherable song titles, gorgeous fragile melodies, with gratuitously weird sounds, and occasional wisps of ersatz classical piano that are aimlessly pretty and somewhat subversive.” This music is a wonderful complement to Juan Carlos Obando’s collection, because his aesthetic has an almost fragile and delicate essence predicated on the foundation of imagination captured and realized. This level of execution elevates a cocktail dress and its lucky owner to new heights, like some sort of fantastic fashion crescendo!

Titled “ Liz Goldwyn vs. Frank Miller”, this collection was in part inspired by Mr. Obando’s friend and muse, Liz Goldwyn. “She represents the way I believe a woman should enjoy fashion; a delicate blending of creativity, imagination, risk, sensuality, along with a strong sense of knowledge for what exactly works on her body, which enable her to showcase her point of view as an individual in her most memorable and sophisticated style,” noted the designer. (She has long been one of my style icons for these reasons and more. I share her affinity and admire her talent for cultivating rare vintage treasures and contemporary artists, alike. I also embrace her sense of individuality. You can see how much knowledge of, love, and respect for a garment Ms. Goldwyn has in the choices she makes.)

Graphic arts, another strong influence on Mr. Obando’s work, take that transformative theme one step further from the figurative representation of a comic book heroine to the literal tangibility of a strong viewpoint. “With the ability to tell graphic stories with a strong film noir influence and a passion to sit for hours sketching the roofs of New York to set the perfect background for a new generation of superheroes. Miller’s work is crucial for all my creative developments as is the guide to understand composition, depth of field, character, and story development—and last but not least, a real passion to empower women,” noted Mr. Obando. Once again this source of inspiration provides a starting point and a trajectory for a passion and honesty in the designer’s work. One can’t help, but feel inspired, moved, even emboldened by these looks.

According to his biography, the Colombian native began his professional visual communications journey in Miami. Possessing a natural ability to translate the beauty that surrounds him into tangible creations, Juan Carlos Obando quickly transformed himself from design student at the University of Miami into one of the most highly sought-after Art Directors in the advertising field. He worked with advertising powerhouses Bates Worldwide, Young & Rubicam, and Saatchi & Saatchi, helping to create campaigns for several global brands including: BMW, Perrier, Procter & Gamble, L'Oreal Paris, and entertainment giant Walt Disney Co. In the fall of 2004, debuting to much acclaim during L.A Fashion Week, Juan Carlos Obando launched his privately-held fashion company, Bureau Beauté, Inc. which houses his eponymous line.

After the preview, I had an opportunity to congratulate the designer. I asked him to elaborate on the collaborative process with Ms. Goldwyn. He explained that he was glad to be inspired by a real woman, living flesh and blood. He can ask her if she likes a design and see firsthand how it feels and resonates with her. When I asked the designer who the Juan Carlos Obando customer is, he affably replied “Every woman, the only requirement is that she be a woman!”

Noting the designer’s flawless technical execution, I asked if he could possibly pick the piece de resistance, alas he could not, explaining that he had poured too much passion into each piece. I too was hard-pressed to play favorites with such a divine collection, but some of the looks that had me especially transfixed and seemed to hold my gaze longer than the others included: a layered mini dress made of scorched lace with a studded nastro; the purple shaved silk chiffon flat-collar coat atop the triple-layered webbed wool and cashmere mini dress; a hand-beaded pvc-sequin nude dress with organza feather panel; and the smoked silk chiffon and georgette gown with hand-folded sleeves. 

I likened the presentation to a museum exhibit, because Mr. Obando’s designs resonated with me, the way a sculpture, painting, or unearthed piece of ephemera conjures up a sense of romance, an appreciation of beauty, or an intellectual curiosity about its creator. It’s a wonderfully provocative experience, the way I feel overcome in the presence of Rodin, I’m certain that he must have been one of the most passionate men ever to have lived—the way his subjects, the lovers, in his sculptures are so entwined, enthralled, and (deeply) in love. Viewing this collection made me think about the designer, his attention to detail, his exemplary craftsmanship, his apparent love of women and an understanding for what makes us look our best. In this case it’s so much better than an exhibit, because these are works of art that you can actually take home!

Images provided courtesy of Juan Carlos Obando.

For more information, please visit, http://www.jcobando.com/

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