Citing literary, musical, cinematic, and artistic inspirations, predominantly from the former half of the 20th century, more specifically the Russian Constructivism and German Expressionism periods, James Coviello unveiled his new collection for Fall 2007. The presentation was held at the New York Bar Association, just a stone's throw away from the tented Bryant Park. With wood floors, massive columns, dark pocket doors, library chairs, and chandeliers, the environment felt warmly inviting and significant, especially given the designer's multi-faceted inspirations.
(l) tweed vest, with floral blouse and velveteen skirt; (r) polka dot dress
What came as no surprise to his audience was Mr. Coviello's brilliant use of pattern, color blocking, and the vintage-inspired knitwear that he's become known and admired for. Even the music was a reworked vintage rendition of Blondie's 'Heart of Glass':
Once I had a love and it was a gas
Soon turned out had a heart of glass
Seemed like the real thing, only to find
Mucho mistrust, love's gone behind
Once I had a love and it was divine
Soon found out I was losing my mind
It seemed like the real thing but I was so blind
Mucho mistrust, love's gone behind
In between
What I find is pleasing and I'm feeling fine
Love is so confusing there's no peace of mind
If I fear I'm losing you it's just no good
You teasing like you do
(l) snow white floral challis dress; (r) multicolor geometric tweed dress
According the company website, the Parsons School of Design alum, who grew up in Fairfield, Connecticut, began his career designing for jewelry duo Erickson Beamon. He worked concurrently, as a milliner, launching his signature hat collection. In its inaugural season, the accessories line was carried by specialty and department stores across America, including Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdales, and Neiman Marcus. In subsequent seasons, his hats would go on to be featured in many 7th Avenue designers' runway shows, such as Oscar de la Renta, Geoffrey Been, Calvin Klein, and Todd Oldman.
(l) color block silk twill top and black satin skirt; (r) color block print silk twill mini shift
In 1991, James Coviello met Anna Sui. Ms. Sui, who was styling a shoot with acclaimed fashion-photographer Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue, requested one of his hats. Soon after, she asked the fellow designer to create hats and knitwear for her first runway show. The following season, Ms. Sui created the James Coviello for Anna Sui label. Mr. Coviello presented his first runway show in 2000. The James Coviello Collection, now a full ready-to-wear line includes knitwear, wovens, and accessories. Today James Coviello designs three collections a year and sells to more than 40 specialty boutiques and department stores throughout the world, including Fred Segal, Barneys, Marissa Collection, Fleurt, Powder, Jade Jakarta, and Club 21.
(l) daisy print and coral studded top with slim pant; (r) olive plaid dress layered over moss studded dress
In 2003, Itokin Co, Ltd, the licensee for the James Coviello Collection in Japan and China, opened two free-standing boutiques, one in Tokyo and another in Osaka. Eight James Coviello shop-in-shops are now open throughout Japan, and ten more shops are planned for the upcoming year. Also in 2003, Coviello began designing a collection for Spiegel catalog. The James Coviello for Spiegel Collection is sold exclusively in Spiegel's Big Book, which was re-launched in 2004 to great fanfare. This collection includes wovens and knitwear and has the same vintage sensibility and feminine appeal that he is known for at a more affordable price. The James Coviello for Spiegel Collection also includes home furnishings. The designer is particularly proud of this collection, which incorporates his life-long interest in antiques and his passion for interior and historical design.
(l) crochet tunic with daisy print dress; (r) dizzy dot mini dress
With fourteen different references, ranging from the early science fiction elements of Soviet silent film Aelita: Queen of Mars to Fritz Lang's Metropolis, James Coviello looks to be bridging the gap, even the program cover and color block separates resemble a magnified view of Gustav Kilmt's Portrait of Adele Bloch Bauer I. Among the 30 looks giving a nod to the mod 1960's, standout pieces were: an aqua polka dot shirt dress; a sweet Snow White floral print challis dress; an adorable geometric tweed jacket with dot top and flecked wide leg pant; a black satin pleated trim shift; the steel dizzy dot silk mini dress; and my most favorite of all' the lavender ruffle trim wool knit top paired with a striped cotton shirt and pinstriped wide leg pant. I know that we've barely finished with this winter, but exactly how many shopping days do I have left until the Fall 2007 collections hit the sales floor? I think I may just have to get my pre-orders in, certainly sooner rather than later'
(l) lace mini dress; (r) lavender ruffle trim and striped shirt and wide leg pant
Images provided courtesy of Felle Photography, for additional images and information, please visit, http://fellephotography.com/
Published on Feb 21, 2007
