The DKNY Spring 2009 presentation was prefaced by a video tribute to the city that bore her label. The NYC mini-montage flashed emblematic images at the speed of neon lights—subway car trains and taxicabs, crosswalks and manhole covers, the Brooklyn Bridge and the Statue of Liberty—a love letter of sorts to Gotham, core inspiration for the eponymous line. Donna Karan toasted the 20th anniversary of her iconic second collection at Bryant Park in lieu of the more familiar Greenwich Street downtown location, the Stephan Weiss Studio, with a California Chandon Cuvee; the varietal of sparkling wine was blended specifically to mark the occasion (each guest was treated to a bottle of the limited edition vintage.) The blended menswear and womenswear runway show sent models strutting out in 74 looks with New York confidence to Depeche Mode’s “Martyr”.

I've been a martyr for love
And I will die in the flames
As I draw my last breath
As I'm closing on death
I will call out your name

I've been a martyr for love
Nailed up on the cross
While you're having your fun
As the damage is done
I'm assessing the cost

I knew what I was letting myself in for
I knew that I could never even the score

I've been a martyr for love
I need to be by your side
I have knelt at your feet
I have felt your deceit
Couldn't leave if I tried

The quintessential New Yorker, Donna Karan was born to build a fashion empire as the daughter of a tailor and showroom model. Program notes for the vigentennial celebration outlined the collection’s palette and silhouette, “20 years of New York Color, born and raised in the best city on earth! With gratitude and lots of love, we celebrate the past as we move into the future. Modern, eclectic pieces reflect and individualize the city’s many colorful personalities, but of course, the base is black, along with neutrals of ash and indigo, shot with neon and electric brights in color blocks or prints. We’ve recharged our icons with breezy sexy-short proportions designed to mix and match in your own style: the boyfriend jacket, the nylon parka, the parachute dress, the dressed-up denim suit, the sweet n’ chic sweater set, the biker vest, the utilitarian jumpsuit, the city essential jersey dress, the python jacquard urban suit, romper shorts, mini twist skirts, and a wardrobe of into-the-night wrap-and-bond club dresses accented with DKNY archival recycled jewelry and finished with a skyscraper sneaker boot or slick patent wrap platform. New York, we look forward to the next 20 years as we honor and celebrate you, our heart, our soul.”

While the palette remained predominantly neutral with New York staples of black, grey, and navy; the collection was brightened by bursts of royal, turquoise, neon and bold prints. The chic utilitarianism of relaxed cargo pants, boyfriend jackets, jumpsuits, and anoraks were balanced by bustiers, mini skirts, wrap and corset dresses. Accessories reigned supreme on New York’s Spring 2009 runways; here the interpretation layered skinny fringed scarves or necklaces. My favorites from the DKNY Spring 2009 Collection included: the neon and indigo ikat bustier with denim habotai pant; a denim tweed long-sleeve coat and corset dress; the black and electric jersey technical twill dress; a python jacquard hooded coat and sweater dress; and the color-blocked dress with bow.  

According to the company website, DKNY is the energy and spirit of New York—international, eclectic, fun, fast and real. DKNY addresses the real-life needs of people everywhere, from work to weekend, jeans to evening. Both fashionable and friendly, DKNY consistently delivers its unique mix of style around the world. For the Parsons alumna, it's never been just about clothes. It's about a lifestyle. She sees the entire picture from head-to-toe, from function to aesthetic. "How do I dress the leg?" inspired Donna Karan Hosiery. "The right bra, T-shirts, and sleepwear?" Donna Karan Intimates. "The perfect glasses?" Donna Karan Eyewear. The list goes on to include shoes, belts, accessories and, as Donna Karan puts it, "Everything you need to pull yourself together."

In a sense, the seed for DKNY was planted, when the former Anne Klein Creative Director, created Anne Klein II in 1982, originating the concept of bridge and lifestyle dressing in fashion. Donna Karan's quest for the perfect jeans, as well as her desire to dress her daughter Gabby, resulted in the 1989 birth of DKNY. Fast fashion with an urban mind-set, DKNY is what Donna Karan calls "the pizza to Collection's caviar." DKNY grew so popular and diverse that other brands and labels spun from it, including DKNY Jeans, DKNY Active, DKNY Underwear, DKNY Juniors, DKNY Kids, and DKNY Baby. Like the Donna Karan Collection, DKNY has myriad accessory lines to underscore its New York City street-smart look. Determined to seduce all the senses, Ms. Karan took on the world of beauty in 1992 under the business and creative leadership of her late husband, Stephan Weiss, who designed the bottles and jars for the signature fragrances and their ancillary products. The beauty division went on to introduce an award-winning skincare line and best-selling fragrances that include Cashmere Mist and DKNY scents for men and women. Completing the lifestyle approach to design, in 2001 she introduced a Donna Karan New York Home collection "all about touch and feel," which includes everything from luxe bedding and candles to cashmere throws, and DKNY Life, which accents the contemporary city home with fashion-forward bedding and accessories.

Throughout her long career, Donna Karan's peers have acknowledged her achievements with numerous accolades. According to her biography, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has saluted Donna Karan an unprecedented six times. Because the industry has been so generous and supportive, Ms. Karan feels it crucial to give back, which is why she spends as much time as possible at her alma mater Parson's lecturing and critiquing students' work. Using her company's visibility and resources for social causes is a heartfelt priority. A member of CFDA's board of directors, Donna Karan conceived as well as spearheaded its Seventh on Sale benefits to raise funds for AIDS awareness and education. Ms. Karan co-chairs the annual New York "Kids for Kids" events for the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric AIDS Foundation, as she has since its 1993 inception, as well as the annual "Super Saturday," a flea market/barbecue founded with the late Liz Tilberis (Harper’s Bazaar Editor-in Chief 1992-1999), in 1998 to benefit the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund. She is an active supporter of New York City's Dia Center for the Arts, one of the most prestigious contemporary art institutes in the country and has chaired its last two Fall Galas. To facilitate her many on-going philanthropic involvements, in 1999, Donna Karan and Stephan Weiss established the Karan-Weiss Foundation to benefit children's causes, medical research, and the arts.

Let us all raise a glass to celebrate DKNY, the brand and architect behind it. DKNY is 20 years young and counting; here’s to a score more!

Images provided courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Newsgroup.

For additional information, please visit http://www.dkny.com/

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