Forget falling in love with the lady in red—for Spring 2009, Carolina Herrera will have you enamored with the ladies in persimmon, teal, and marigold as well! While the new collection predominantly featured after-five attire with a bevy of evening gowns and cocktail frocks for the most demanding society maven’s calendar; there was also lovely day suiting, dresses, and separates for the ladies who lunch. With 43 looks, Mrs. Herrera did what she does best; delivering a beautiful, romantic, and sophisticated presentation!

I admit it. Carolina Herrera’s design aesthetic has a visceral affect on me. At times, I felt on the verge of tears because the designs were so exquisite. From the ruffled bodices and embroidered gowns (it was like being in a garden, where flower petals might have been painstakingly sewn into these garments), to the tiered and cocktail frocks—one beautiful ensemble after another left me gasping for air, then holding my breath, only to have me gasping for air once again. Even when masculine pieces were at play with the suiting or tuxedo jackets, Mrs. Herrera softened the lines and embellished the silks in a romantic homage to her inspiration, Venus.

According to the program notes, the Carolina Herrera Spring 2009 collection was a play on color and contrast. Marigold, persimmon, hibiscus, and teal joined the high contrast of all the shades of white and finishes of black. Structured masculine tailoring paired with soft weightless evening gowns defined this effortless collection that intersected the ideas of Botticelli’s ethereal woman and the Russian Constructivist’s crisp simplicity.

The designer said she wanted to “play a lot with color,” underscoring a romanticism and ethereal quality of the evening inspired by Botticelli. She designed the collection with a very feminine and romantic undertone because “women like to look that way.” In somber uncertain economic times, these gowns allow us to focus on pieces that are all at once beautiful, elegant, and sexy; best of all, the cocktail lengths offer a bit more versatility than full-length evening gowns.

A linear silhouette for the day (tuxedo jackets and cigarette pants or satin jackets with bustier and a wide-leg pant) was countered by fluid motion for the night (off-the-shoulder gowns, tiered blouses, multi-ruffle appliqués). The fabrics employed in this collection ranged from tweed organza, textured silk, and lacquered raffia to silk organza, duchess satin, and silk clocque. While statement jewelry remained a strong trend this season, here the emphasis on embellishment was incorporated into the garments with embroidered necklines, petal, and bow details. Although beaded embroideries were scaled back a bit this season; ruffle, peplum, and appliqué detailing adorned nearly every look.

The great use of color (persimmon, hibiscus, teal, and marigold) punctuated a predominantly neutral palette of black, white, and vanilla. There were also some captivating prints unveiled this season in the form of a broken stripe, rose, and marigold to further nuance the romantic direction. Black and white pairings were pervasive in Mrs. Herrera’s palette and the contrast of bright to neutral hues helped to make the hair and make-up styling pop. Orlando Pita rolled and twisted sections along the hairline off the face and tucked it under just above the nape of the neck, while Diane Kendal’s smoky eye and pale pink mouth heightened the dramatic affect.

My favorite Carolina Herrera Spring 2009 looks included: a persimmon and teal full embroidered dress with a persimmon cummerbund belt; the strapless teal faille dress with tweed organza detail; an off-the-shoulder lace chiffon jacquard full beaded gown; a marigold rose print cotton sateen bustier with black lurex faille pencil skirt with ruffle at back; the black raffia bustier with black multi-layered evening skirt; a black and white broken stripe georgette embroidered dress; and the white clocque gown with multiple ruffle layering.

Carolina Herrera New York is a referent for luxury, exclusiveness, sophistication and elegance in the world of fashion & fragrances. With this principle as a guiding light, the brand has broadened its sight to reflect the needs and lifestyle of twenty-first century society. Carolina Herrera Jr., collaborator, spokesmodel, and right-hand advisor to the fragrance business, brings a fresh and innovative perspective to the brand. This philosophy has made Carolina Herrera New York a solid, thriving business in constant evolution!

I was thrilled to discover that former CFDA Womenswear Designer Award Winner was inspired by my favorite painter, Alessandro Botticelli. As a young girl, I was so moved by Primavera and The Birth of Venus, the complimentary masterpieces which hang on facing walls at the Uffizi Gallery in Florence. I can remember in recent years, embarking on that faithful journey to the famous art museum, sitting on a bench, staring at the enormous paintings and having a similar reaction, being nearly moved to tears by their beauty. It’s awe-inspiring and amazing to behold an image for your entire life and then come face to face with it; viewing Carolina Herrera’s presentation was as tantamount an experience for me.

Images provided courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Newsgroup.

For more information please visit, http://www.carolinaherrera.com/

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