Titled “Celestial Seduction”, the inspirations for Akiko Ogawa’s Autumn-Winter 2008 Collection were twofold, overlapping the metaphysical and tangible. This season the designer touted for her mastery tailoring cited dual influences, bridging the gap between a futuristic heroine and the past of 1600’s Scotland. Unveiling nearly three dozen looks, this collection continued to walk that ubiquitously fine line we’ve seen much of this season, an embodiment of almost warrior-like female empowerment against dreamy romanticism.

According to the program notes, Akiko Ogawa created a collection inspired by the glittering arc of the Milky Way. She was captivated by the icy beauty of its countless stars, sparkling like a belt of silver sand in the infinite reaches of space. The disparate elements underpinning the collection included Maetel, a mysterious heroine of popular sci-fi anime Galaxy Express 999. Another key source of inspiration was traditional 17th century Scottish costume, particularly great kilts that feature swathes of rich tartan fabric thrown over the shoulder. Ms. Ogawa’s vision of a strong, confident woman was reflected in an array of military touches, including black bearskin style hats, sashes, and sharp uniform-tailoring.

A romantic, futuristic feeling permeated the collection, with reflective, lustrous and mirrored surfaces incorporated into numerous styles. Swarovski crystals, tweed with flecks of lamé and fine black tulle enveloping the body all served to evoke images of a woman who travels to distant galaxies. The color story of indigo, teal, charcoal, and black also reflected this moody, romantic image. Ms. Ogawa’s specialty tailored pieces came in even more compact tight-fitting silhouettes this season. Their highly structured, almost armor like forms were made possible by to supremely high-grade fabrics, such as ultra-soft double cloth. Other key fabrications include curled mohair, lamé tweed and tulle, which were used to add volume to bustle skirts.

According to the company website, after graduating from Kuwasawa Design School in 1995, Ms. Ogawa, worked for fashion giants Onward Kashiyama and Sanei International before establishing her own brand in 2001. Her first collection was shown at Work Shop in Paris where she was discovered by buyers from Barneys New York Japan. Ms. Ogawa has since enjoyed a meteoric rise to stardom in her native Japan and is in demand as a director and consultant for large Japanese apparel companies. In 2003, she opened her first directly operated store in Aoyama’s Bell Commons building. In September 2004, she presented her collection in New York in an exhibition format. Since Autumn-Winter 2005, the young talent has been showing her eponymous line in both New York and Paris. In 2005, Akiko Ogawa was presented with the prestigious Kuwasawa Design Award.

The wailing of bagpipes opened the show ushering out a dichotomy of militant jackets and kilt dresses that were balanced by ruffle-front blouses and confetti skirts. My favorites this season included: the black ribbed wool turtleneck atop Scottish tartan mini kilt with tulle bustle and harness; the deep lake blue silk cotton shirt dress layered under a black to green ombré curly mohair vest; a deep lake blue wool melton riding jacket with black brushed cashmere romper, silk cotton turtleneck and net train; the plastic fringe dress with kid mohair cap sleeves; the black pleated silk cotton chiffon babydoll dress with jeweled neckline; and the black lame tweed down coat with Swarovski crystal and faux fur trim paired with black kid mohair legwarmers.

Images provided courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Newsgroup.

For more information please visit, http://www.a-primary.com/akikoogawa/index.html
   

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