Borracho Cantina Review - Los Angeles Gives Birth To Its Newest Mexican Eatery

Borracho Cantina is the latest establishment to attempt to dazzle your stomach into an evening out. The newest offspring from Caffe Primo owners, Tony Riviera and partner Charlton Lui, hopes to change the taco-tequila eatery scene in this fickle lil’ town.


The restaurant pre-opening invite was extended so as to allow us to experience the décor and to put us through a sample of their gastronomic inventions. The evening started off with an introduction by Mr. Riviera himself, who was on hand to explain the concept behind his baby – how the economic downturn had forced everyone to reevaluate their previously invested choices in evenings out. He wanted the good people to be able to appreciate fine food and quality drinks at price points that would not empty their wallets.


Unfortunately, due to Borracho’s pre-launch status, we were unable to appreciate the entire dining experience as certain portions of the restaurant were incomplete. However, this did not detract from what Tony had intended.

The back end of the restaurant houses the well-stocked tequila bar which offers delicious cocktail concoctions blended, shaken or stirred by the hands of their expert bartenders. The delightfully fresh and delicious peach margarita made with premium Herradura tequila was our drink of the evening. Let’s not forget to mention that this same bar boasts a hundred different kinds of tequila to wet the lips and to smooth any awkward conversation.

Our evening’s sampler menu was initiated by the traditional Mexican appetizer - chips and salsa. However, accompanying it was a curiously intriguing version of the guacamole which was oddly fused with the addition of pomegranate seeds, working beautifully together – the sweet crunch of those juicy seeds diluted the heavily rich oily flavor of the avocado.


The evening’s culinary delights continued with corn tamales (corn meal that is usually filled and steamed inside banana leaves) – two were offered for our tasting. The first was a combination of cheese with bits of sweet corn kernels juxtaposing wonderfully in the mouth with every chew. The other was an unbelievable chicken mole, a traditional Mexican dish cooked in a chocolate base. This was the surprise of the evening, a superb melding of the thick and rich flavors of the dark sauce and the fluffy, light savoriness of the corn meal.


A medley of tacos followed soon after. The first was spare rib with a delightfully sweet and tangy sauce and the second was carnitas, which is braised pork. The third, and the one requiring the bravest of palates, was a fiery shrimp taco. Admitting it took quite a dose of courage, it eventually went down the throat of this writer. Of course, it had to be washed down with a healthy splash of the aforementioned peach margarita.


The onslaught of our taste buds proceeded with a serving of enchiladas which were slightly overambitious. Topped with melted cheese, they were overly drenched with a red salsa that the chicken-filled soft tortillas readily soaked up, resulting in a somewhat overpowering spiciness overriding the subtleties of the spices in the filling.


The final savory dish of the evening was a crispy quesadilla with a tortilla shell almost crepe-like in quality and which could be easily mistaken for the latter. Served with the requisite pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream, the warm melted cheeses inside were light, sweet and creamy. Even with stomachs teetering on overbrimming, we marched on knowing that the evening’s desserts were right around the corner.


Sadly, even though knowing our evening would eventually end, it was thankfully concluded with not just one, but two overwhelmingly astounding desserts. The first was a fluffy and custardy flan with a sufficiently and not-so-cloyingly-sweet syrup topping. I can envision arguments at the dinner table related to entrees ending with a conclusionary agreement on the flan. The ‘tres leches’, the final plate of the evening, was a bread pudding soaked in three kinds of sweetened milk. It was dense, heavy and the exact opposite of the flan. While still a worthy choice to end one’s meal, I would choose the former over the latter.


With our tummies full and our appetites sated, we walked away wondering on our next gathering at Borracho, which I expect to be sooner than any of my friends can guess.

Borracho located at 8570 Sunset Blvd. in West Hollywood and is open 11:30 a.m.- 2 a.m.

Published on Jan 23, 2010