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Santa Monica, CA (October 8, 2008) – Nobody’s first experience at a
French restaurant should ever be as exquisite as mine was, because now the bar begins a quite a high level.
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Welcome to Anisette Brasserie, located a block away from Santa Monica pier
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I’m referring to Santa Monica’s newest treasure,
Anisette Brassiere, which opened its doors in June 2008 under the culinary direction of
Chef Alain Giraud; however, it was not until last week when
Anisette debuted the culinary genius of
Chef de Cuisine Joshua Smith, that I experienced
Anisette’s menu.
Chef Smith originally entered the culinary world as a
French cook in Las Vegas where he tested the fire at multiple restaurants and hotels. Later, he transitioned to the Pacific Coast to work at the
Viceroy Hotel (Santa Monica) and then to the Atlantic to work in Miami. Throughout the years,
Chef Smith’s creations have been from a variety of Mediterranean origins, including Italy, Spain and Greece. Yet due to his desire for creative freedom, passion for
French cuisine and craving for culinary specialization,
Chef Smith returned to breezy Santa Monica to call
Anisette his new home.
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Anisette combines a sophisticated food and drink menu with a cozy ambiance
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The moment my boyfriend, Ryan, and I opened the glass doors and stepped onto the mosaic tiles of
Anisette Brasserie, we were surrounded by a warmth and generosity that enveloped us throughout the evening. The General Managers, Darius Kinsky and Biff Wilson, greeted us at the entrance and then led us upstairs to the open kitchen to see the masterminds of
Chef Giraud and
Chef Smith at work. It actually would be more accurate to say that we saw the masterminds “at play,” for they were laughing, bustling back and forth and having too much fun for it to be called “work.” This jovial behavior permeated the brasserie and guests alike, and was a distinguishing quality of
Anisette that I often find is missing in high-end eateries.
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Genius cuisines and laughter can be found upstairs in the open kitchen where Chef Giraud, Chef Smith and other staff reside
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In fact,
Chef Giraud said that making
Anisette a
French
brasserie rather than a
restaurant was a strategic move. In France, a
brasserie is a café doubling as a restaurant with a relaxed setting, less formal eating hours and more comfortable décor, but still offering exquisite service and a detailed menu.
According to
Chef Giraud, "The
Brasserie concept is timeless.” Additionally,
Anisette takes advantage of its proximity to the
Farmer's Market, which “allows us [at
Anisette] the tools to infuse seasonal influence and to showcase our ability to incorporate the very best of fresh ingredients and produce."
Ryan and I were lucky enough to taste eight savory dishes, accompanied by four glasses of red wine, as well as a deliciously sweet dessert before we
dit adieu to
Anisette.
Chef Smith personalized our tasting menu to include:
1.
Pan Bagnat, an albacore sandwich from
Southern France
2. Endless Summer
Oysters
3.
Beet Salad
4.
Beef Tartar with
Quail Egg
5.
Gratin of Coquilles St. Jacques, also known as
scallops
6. Yukon Gold Potato
Gnocchi
7.
Provencal Daube
Beef Stew
8.
Monkfish
Bourride
9. Apple Tart
I could honestly rave about every bite taken that evening, but that sort of a tease would be plain evil. Instead, I’ll give you the highlights – just enough taunting to get your taste buds revved up…
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Chef Smith transformed the Pan Bagnat, traditionally a Southern France comfort food, into a Santa Monica delicacy
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Our first appetizer was the
Pan Bagnat, usually a sandwich casually eaten in
Southern France.
Anisette, however, turned this comfort food into a delicacy of
albacore, sardines, lipstick peppers and local
Farmer’s Market tomatoes, drizzled with olive oil on a warm baguette. I have to admit that when I heard there were sardines, I was a little afraid their pungent taste would overpower the others, but same on me for doubting
Chef Smith’s abilities – the sandwich, a little messy and definitely requiring use of our forks, was delicious and unlike any combination I’ve ever tasted!
The most unique blend of spices and textures, however, was in the
Beef Tartar. Rather than serving thin slices of beef surrounded by accompanying ingredients, which is the Japanese-style and most common presentation of any tartar dish,
Chef Smith minced the beef and rolled it into a ball with capers, red onions and Dijon vinaigrette. The finishing touch to this
raw delicacy was the
quail egg that was poured over the top, seeping into the meatball and binding the distinct flavors into a single masterpiece.
“Smith-style” tartar hooked me instantly, proving itself far superior and more satisfying than the dainty slices of Japanese-style tartar. The zest of the capers, the pungent bite of onions, the spice of the Dijon and the buttery glory of the beef danced with my taste buds in a way never before experienced with tartar dish.
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I wish each bite of the Gratin of Coquilles St Jacques (scallops in a sunchoke, walnut mousseline sauce) lasted forever
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Tied for first with tartar, was the
Gratin of Coquilles St. Jacques, also known as
scallops. Three large scallops, so succulent and of the most perfect, moist consistency that each slice practically melted onto your fork, were served in a sunchoke, walnut
mousseline sauce that was phenomenal to say the least! The walnuts didn’t taste at all nutty or husky in the sauce, but instead provided an almost sweet, plumpness that emphasized the opposing textures and tastes of the dish.
Throughout the evening,
Chef Smith demonstrated his ability to take ordinary, traditional
French dishes and add his creative twist to transform them into modern delicacies. This creative expression was first revealed with
Chef Smith’s adaptation of the albacore
Pan Bagnat and then came full circle at the close our meal with two traditional wine-based stews:
Provencal Daube and
Monkfish Bourride.
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Provencal Daube: traditional French stew with red wine marinated beef, glazed vegetables and pommes puree
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The
Provencal Daube is a
beef stew that was satisfying enough to be a sole entrée and would appeal to nearly every type of guest. This hearty dish of tender, juicy pieces of beef marinated in red wine; chunks of glazed carrots, potatoes and other root vegetables; and
pommes puree (pureed
potato) had the hint of a sweet, tanginess and somehow didn’t leave you feeling overly stuffed, which was perfect since I was shuffling between bites of this and the
Monkfish Bourride!
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One of my favorite dishes was the Monkfish Bourride: a fillet of rich, moist monkfish, zestful garnishings, mussels and vegetables
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Bourride translates to English as
Monkfish Stew, and though it, too, was incredibly hearty and with a thick base, this stew originated in
Languedoc, the southern region bordering the Mediterranean Sea (versus
Provence is further east), where monkfish and other seafood are common components of the cuisine. This stew got its zestful flavor from the aioli, leeks and lemon slices and was garnish with alternating mussels, full baby carrots and potatoes, surrounding a large fillet of rich, moist monkfish – pure heaven in my mouth!
Every dish was bursting with freshness and flavor that tickled our palettes, and the exquisite, rich wines further enhanced each ingredient’s zestful aroma. Sophisticated menu, cozy ambiance and gracious staff, all without the snobbery of many high-end restaurants are just a few of the many reasons why everyone should experience
Anisette Brasserie for his or herself!
Contact Information:
Anisette Brasserie
225 Santa Monica Blvd
Santa Monica, CA 90401
(310) 395-3200
www.anisettebrasserie.com
info@anisettebrasserie.com
Hours:
Monday – Thursday, 7:30am to midnight
Friday, 7:30am to 1am
Saturday, 8am to 1am
Sunday, 8am to midnight
Sister Restaurants:
Falcon Hollywood, 7213 Sunset Blvd, Hollywood CA. (323) 850-5350
Pearl Dragon, 15229 Sunset Blvd, Pacific Palisades CA. (310) 459- 9790
Voda, moving to a bigger location after spending 8 years on Second Street in Santa Monica
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