Anisette Brasserie Review – Home is Where the Heart Is…Actually Where the Tummy Is

Santa Monica, CA (October 8, 2008) – Nobody’s first experience at a French restaurant should ever be as exquisite as mine was, because now the bar begins a quite a high level.

I’m referring to Santa Monica’s newest treasure, Anisette Brassiere, which opened its doors in June 2008 under the culinary direction of Chef Alain Giraud; however, it was not until last week when Anisette debuted the culinary genius of Chef de Cuisine Joshua Smith, that I experienced Anisette’s menu.

Chef Smith originally entered the culinary world as a French cook in Las Vegas where he tested the fire at multiple restaurants and hotels. Later, he transitioned to the Pacific Coast to work at the Viceroy Hotel (Santa Monica) and then to the Atlantic to work in Miami. Throughout the years, Chef Smith’s creations have been from a variety of Mediterranean origins, including Italy, Spain and Greece. Yet due to his desire for creative freedom, passion for French cuisine and craving for culinary specialization, Chef Smith returned to breezy Santa Monica to call Anisette his new home.

The moment my boyfriend, Ryan, and I opened the glass doors and stepped onto the mosaic tiles of Anisette Brasserie, we were surrounded by a warmth and generosity that enveloped us throughout the evening. The General Managers, Darius Kinsky and Biff Wilson, greeted us at the entrance and then led us upstairs to the open kitchen to see the masterminds of Chef Giraud and Chef Smith at work. It actually would be more accurate to say that we saw the masterminds “at play,” for they were laughing, bustling back and forth and having too much fun for it to be called “work.” This jovial behavior permeated the brasserie and guests alike, and was a distinguishing quality of Anisette that I often find is missing in high-end eateries.

In fact, Chef Giraud said that making Anisette a French brasserie rather than a restaurant was a strategic move. In France, a brasserie is a café doubling as a restaurant with a relaxed setting, less formal eating hours and more comfortable décor, but still offering exquisite service and a detailed menu.

According to Chef Giraud, "The Brasserie concept is timeless.” Additionally, Anisette takes advantage of its proximity to the Farmer's Market, which “allows us [at Anisette] the tools to infuse seasonal influence and to showcase our ability to incorporate the very best of fresh ingredients and produce."

Ryan and I were lucky enough to taste eight savory dishes, accompanied by four glasses of red wine, as well as a deliciously sweet dessert before we dit adieu to Anisette. Chef Smith personalized our tasting menu to include:

1.    Pan Bagnat, an albacore sandwich from Southern France
2.    Endless Summer Oysters
3.    Beet Salad
4.    Beef Tartar with Quail Egg
5.    Gratin of Coquilles St. Jacques, also known as scallops
6.    Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi
7.     Provencal Daube Beef Stew
8.    Monkfish Bourride
9.    Apple Tart

I could honestly rave about every bite taken that evening, but that sort of a tease would be plain evil. Instead, I’ll give you the highlights – just enough taunting to get your taste buds revved up…

Our first appetizer was the Pan Bagnat, usually a sandwich casually eaten in Southern France. Anisette, however, turned this comfort food into a delicacy of albacore, sardines, lipstick peppers and local Farmer’s Market tomatoes, drizzled with olive oil on a warm baguette. I have to admit that when I heard there were sardines, I was a little afraid their pungent taste would overpower the others, but same on me for doubting Chef Smith’s abilities – the sandwich, a little messy and definitely requiring use of our forks, was delicious and unlike any combination I’ve ever tasted!

The most unique blend of spices and textures, however, was in the Beef Tartar. Rather than serving thin slices of beef surrounded by accompanying ingredients, which is the Japanese-style and most common presentation of any tartar dish, Chef Smith minced the beef and rolled it into a ball with capers, red onions and Dijon vinaigrette. The finishing touch to this raw delicacy was the quail egg that was poured over the top, seeping into the meatball and binding the distinct flavors into a single masterpiece. “Smith-style” tartar hooked me instantly, proving itself far superior and more satisfying than the dainty slices of Japanese-style tartar. The zest of the capers, the pungent bite of onions, the spice of the Dijon and the buttery glory of the beef danced with my taste buds in a way never before experienced with tartar dish.
 
Tied for first with tartar, was the Gratin of Coquilles St. Jacques, also known as scallops. Three large scallops, so succulent and of the most perfect, moist consistency that each slice practically melted onto your fork, were served in a sunchoke, walnut mousseline sauce that was phenomenal to say the least! The walnuts didn’t taste at all nutty or husky in the sauce, but instead provided an almost sweet, plumpness that emphasized the opposing textures and tastes of the dish.

Throughout the evening, Chef Smith demonstrated his ability to take ordinary, traditional French dishes and add his creative twist to transform them into modern delicacies. This creative expression was first revealed with Chef Smith’s adaptation of the albacore Pan Bagnat and then came full circle at the close our meal with two traditional wine-based stews: Provencal Daube and Monkfish Bourride.

The Provencal Daube is a beef stew that was satisfying enough to be a sole entrée and would appeal to nearly every type of guest. This hearty dish of tender, juicy pieces of beef marinated in red wine; chunks of glazed carrots, potatoes and other root vegetables; and pommes puree (pureed potato) had the hint of a sweet, tanginess and somehow didn’t leave you feeling overly stuffed, which was perfect since I was shuffling between bites of this and the Monkfish Bourride!

Bourride translates to English as Monkfish Stew, and though it, too, was incredibly hearty and with a thick base, this stew originated in Languedoc, the southern region bordering the Mediterranean Sea (versus Provence is further east), where monkfish and other seafood are common components of the cuisine. This stew got its zestful flavor from the aioli, leeks and lemon slices and was garnish with alternating mussels, full baby carrots and potatoes, surrounding a large fillet of rich, moist monkfish – pure heaven in my mouth!

Every dish was bursting with freshness and flavor that tickled our palettes, and the exquisite, rich wines further enhanced each ingredient’s zestful aroma. Sophisticated menu, cozy ambiance and gracious staff, all without the snobbery of many high-end restaurants are just a few of the many reasons why everyone should experience Anisette Brasserie for his or herself!

Contact Information:
Anisette Brasserie
225 Santa Monica Blvd
Santa Monica, CA 90401
(310) 395-3200
www.anisettebrasserie.com
info@anisettebrasserie.com

Hours:
Monday – Thursday, 7:30am to midnight
Friday, 7:30am to 1am
Saturday, 8am to 1am
Sunday, 8am to midnight

Sister Restaurants:
Falcon Hollywood, 7213 Sunset Blvd, Hollywood CA. (323) 850-5350
Pearl Dragon, 15229 Sunset Blvd, Pacific Palisades CA. (310) 459- 9790
Voda, moving to a bigger location after spending 8 years on Second Street in Santa Monica