Roof top dining in Spring

When I thought of Prague, I thought of lots of potatoes in an Eastern European country that was held under communism. Not exactly your idea of an enthralling vacation spot. But, for a few years now, I have spoken with people who have visited Prague and come back with stories of how romantic and charming the city is, with a thriving economy and filled with history at every turn. And, was that a movie studio that was recently built? The stories are true. Now that it is a free country, businesses are popping up, and it is the new land of opportunity. The communist-era blackened buildings are now clean and some colorful, with refurbished and remodeled interiors. There are stores galore with the latest fashions, and fabulous restaurants that look like they were transplanted from Los Angeles with wall-sized photos of the latest hot celebrities from the states and now serving haute cuisine.

Dining room

Other countries have found Prague, too. You can hear every language being spoken as you walk into Old Town Square and drink your mulled red wine as you choose which musical attraction you will attend in the many historical venues that are home to wonderful hour long classical concerts. After, you can do your shopping for presents to bring back home. Everything from sheepskin slippers from the mountains of Slovakia sold at a kiosk, to the beautiful Czech crystal glass that Prague is known, found sparkling in the window fronts. As you shop, you will be tempted by the long juicy bratwurst sausages that are sold at various stands throughout the squares, and whole sides of pork turning on a spit. And for those of you who aren't tempted by the plethora of proteins, there is Trdlnik: A cylindrical doughy bracelet that is cooked on a heated roller, then sprinkled with sugar and spices. It is a Czech tradition at Christmas time, made obvious by the boundless lines at every stand. Well worth the wait to bite into the hot sweet pastry with the perfect amount of nutmeg, allspice, and cinnamon flavors.

View from the roof top

Most of the hotels were once something else before 1989, each seeming to inhabit a secret history. The Hotel Aria, where I stayed, was resurrected from a communist era printing house and before that a WWII regional head office. You would never know these hidden facts unless you inquire, however. Now it is an architectural wonder, touted Prague's first 5-star luxury boutique hotel. A little wonderful haven settled cozily in Mala Strana in the Little Quarter. The architect Rocco Magnoli achieved his goal to make the Aria Hotel the most architecturally distinctive and beautiful hotel in the city. And, the music themed concept offers a visceral experience. Just up from the Charles Bridge and down from the Prague Castle, the Aria is walking distance to St. Nicholas Cathedral, and Old Town Square. I suggest you have a meal or tea on the Aria's Roof Garden Terrace and get your bearings, as you get a 360-degree view of the city. (Don't miss the American flag next door at the American Embassy, it is pitched at the highest point in the city.)

Boardroom

The Aria has four guestroom floors, each dedicated to a different musical genre - Jazz, Opera, Classical or Contemporary. Each of the fifty-two rooms and suites honors one great artist or composer of that genre, with music, art, and books highlighting their work. If you look out certain windows you can see a caricature of the many musicians and composers painted inside the arches across the way. If you have had enough of your particular composer/musician who dominates your room's flavor, you are welcome to borrow CD's from a well-stocked CD library downstairs.

Music room

But the music doesn't stop there. The Aria has a Music Salon with comfortable leather seating, ideal for relaxing by the fireplace with an after-dinner drink or a mulled wine. It makes for a cozy environment. And, lest I forget, the two Chagall's that hang inside are rumored to be real. I highly recommend the Aria's mulled wine, which they occasionally have available gratis for you outside the salon. It tastes like no other mulled wine in the city. The rum and honey infused concoction will spoil you and each night you will hurry anxiously back to see if they are serving it again that evening.

Guest room

If you are the type to feel guilty if you don't maintain your workout schedule while on vacation or on business, the hotel offers a very competent fitness center equipped with state-of-the-art equipment. You can either watch a large flatscreen television or look out the windows at the beautiful Vrtbovska Gardens below while you pump up your muscles.

Great workout facility

Their breakfast is also worth mentioning. Served in the Winter Garden, guests are offered a complimentary daily breakfast. I found the menu varied enough to keep me intrigued, and a banquet style table with a boundless selection of breakfast foods, including an excellent smoked salmon. Their coffee was strong, their juice freshly squeezed. It made for an easy transition into your daily jaunts.

Guest room

As well, their bar was a treat. Open late into the evenings, their servers were easy to talk to and answered questions that perhaps were close to the heart. So, too, their restaurant CODA is one of the great restaurants in Prague. Their chef Jan Skrle serving excellent continental cuisine: Try the Tuna Carpaccio with Wasabi Creme Fraiche or Sea Scallops St. Jacques with Cinzano and an Oyster Mushroom Salpicon to start. And, for a main course the Filet Mignon with Ragout of Porcini and Chanterelles or New Zealand Rack of Lamb in Mustard Crust with Prosciutto Bundled Asparagus. You won't regret it. And for vegetarians there is a Beetroot Risotto with Parmagiano Flakes and Arugala. Even if you are full, don't miss having their light Wild Strawberries with a 15-Year-Old Balsamic Vinegar Vanilla Bean Mascarpone. In the springtime you can have dinner on the Rooftop Garden. I have no doubt that would be a high point of any romantic vacation.

Suite

There is no doubt the hotel is set up for the elite who come to Prague. Their staff is accommodating and knowledgeable, helping us to find one of the hidden treasures for traditional Czech cuisine. The American name is The Blue Duck. Once you find it, you will most certainly be glad you made the effort. Not inexpensive, but very worthy of its recommendation. The waiters are gregarious and can suggest some of the better wines in Prague found on their wine list. The foie gras with sauteed grapes was cooked to perfection and the salmon with dill sauce had such a light dill flavor enhancing the perfect slice of salmon, served with snap peas that were hot but still crisp. Truly a find.

Caricatures of composers and musicians

Needless to say, Prague has beer. And not surprisingly, it's great. Without a doubt the Plzensky Prazdroj is a beer lovers staple while in this city.

Prague at night

Give yourself a few days to get to know the city. Walk up to the castle and then listen to Chorale music inside the St. Nicholas church on one day. The next day, walk into the Jewish quarter and by moved by the history of the Czech Jews during the war. Look for the name of your family or that of a friend who was lost in the war.

The next day, be thrust back into the bustle of the city by going to the outdoor market at the Stare Mesto Square. Then shop on Vaclavske Namesti where you can get rejuvenated at HOT one of the hip new restaurants. By evening, you can walk over the St. Charles bridge and get a sense of a gothic time from the castle lit up on the hill. In the nights there are plenty of jazz bars to sooth the soul, and if the music doesn't' try the local liqueur Absinthe' it definitely will. However you fill your days in this new land of plenty, Prague will be music to your ears.

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