|
 |
|
A moment before taking a free dive off the highest building in Auckland
|
AUCKLAND, New Zealand - The first time I heard the phrase, our plane was plunging for the third time into dense fog above
Wellington airport. The stewardess saw the look of panic on my face and reassured me, "
No worries."
I was to learn it's the national verbal response to almost any situation, from a major calamity to requesting a glass of water. But she was right. The
Qantas airplane landed perfectly and no one but me seemed at all worried.
New Zealand is a carefree land and perhaps the most beautiful country in the world. I have decided that there are no bad views in this Eden, just changes of scenery. Lying about 12 hours southwest of Los Angeles,
New Zealand is composed primarily of a north and south island, shaped somewhat like a fried egg above a sausage roll. About 4 million people and 40 million sheep inhabit a country about the size of California, which it also resembles, albeit upside down and backwards.
 |
|
Are ewe look'n at me, are ewe look'n at me!? Sheep farm in New Zealand
|
Three-quarters of the population live on the warmer north island, which is about a third of the country and home to the largest cities of
Auckland and the capital,
Wellington. As on most island nations, life is like a Dickens novel, you keep meeting the same people in different places and well-known figures keep drifting through your daily activity.
Norah Jones was my seatmate on a flight from
Christchurch to
Auckland and boxer
Talmadge Griffis was on my
Qantas flight back to the United States.
I was traveling the length of the country exploring the wine regions, from the
Waimaku west of
Auckland to
Christchurch. I was astonished by the high quality and number of wineries (427) that fruit the country with some of the best sauvignon blanc and pinot noir in the world. Northeast of
Wellington is the
Martinborough area, where I particularly enjoyed the pinot noir at filmmaker
Raymond Thompson's Tirohana Estate. Crossing over to the South Island,
Marlborough is the celebrated sauvignon blanc region.
Cloudy Bay and
Allan Scott wineries are located across the street from each other.
Scott's lovely outdoor restaurant
Twelve Trees offers a casual, wine-friendly menu.
It was in
Marlborough that I discovered my favorite vineyard,
Te Whare Ra (tay-fary-ra). Every one of their wines is superior, especially the Gewurztraminer and the pinot noir. The
Nelson area to the west of
Marlborough has the most consistently fine wines in
New Zealand and superb whites. The best chardonnay I tasted was the
2004 Neudorf. Further south in
Canterbury, Pegasus Bay also has great whites.
 |
|
Wellington Harbor
|
While in
Auckland don't miss the
Sky Tower, where for $100 you can parachute off the top. In
Wellington visit the old Astoria cafe, which serves the best coffee in town, and the flowering botanical gardens. Heading south to the beautifully preserved Victorian city of
Graytown, sample the best chocolate in
New Zealand at
Schoc Chocolate Therapy Shop, have lunch at the nearby
Salute restaurant and dine at the
French Bistro in
Martinborough. It's home to
Chef Wendy Campbell, a friend of
Julia Child and
Ann Willen. In the town of
Carterton take the tour of the
Paua Shell factory and explore the gift shop full of handcrafted, luminescent jewelry made from the native abalone. Later sop up award-winning
Tasman Bay Olive Oil in
Nelson.
If you like mussels you have to take the cruise into the
Marlborough Sound fiords. Amazing views await you and the freshest mussels you've ever had are pulled from the sea and steamed on board. For earthbound produce, visit the huge Sunday-morning farmer's market in
Marlborough, where the wealth of the country is spread before you. For a change of pace, visit
Harrington's brewery in
Richmond and try one of their 24 homemade brews or get a jug to go. On the road to
Christchurch, warm up in the
Hanmer thermal springs. Get good directions to
Errol Hitt's saffron farm in
Okuku or you'll never get to try his wonderful saffron-laced products, from honey to marinades. Nearby in
Fernside is
Leon Havill's Mead Cellar. He's been producing some of the best mead in the world since 1964.
 |
|
Spring-fed swimming hole on the Claremont Country Estates in North Canterbury, a working ranch set on 2,400 acres
|
This is a very crime-free country and honesty abounds. On two occasions I was given back change when I overpaid, and a shopkeeper chased me down the street to deliver a bag I inadvertently left in her store. The most amazing incident was an e-mail from a young woman who found my business card case and offered to mail it to me in the United States.
New Zealanders are also very frugal and tipping is not part of the dining experience or psyche, probably a result of the country's large
Scottish heritage.
It is a diverse population that is actively seeking immigration.
New Zealand has the lowest unemployment of any industrialized nation. It also has one of the best bed-and-breakfast networks in the world. Because of the rural nature of the countryside, there are few motels and hotels outside of the major cities and B&Bs are your best option.
Wairepo House in
Nelson is set in the middle of an apple orchard and serves great breakfasts. In their garden I was encircled by fantail birds, beautiful and graceful fliers. I felt like
Saint Francis of Assisi, but later learned they weren't enamored of me - they feed on the wing and I was only a food source kicking up insects.
Claremont Country Estate in
North Canterbury dates from 1866 and is a working ranch set on 2,400 acres, Owners
Richard and Rosie Goord are charming transplants originally from Africa. I was one of the first guests at the
Brancott Country Retreat, a spectacular modern structure resting on a hill in the middle of a vineyard. Other B&Bs included
Thorndon House, a restored Victorian home in
Wellington run by a German family, the 1876
Old Manse
in Martinborough, and Sennen House in Picton, where the director of "King Kong" was staying.
IF YOU GO
Because of the rural nature of
New Zealand, exploration by rental car is the best way to travel, despite fuel costs of $5 a gallon. Qantas (www.qantasusa.com) has nonstop, daily flights to New Zealand from the West Coast and works closely with Tourism New Zealand (www.newzealand.com), (866) 639-9325, which can provide booklets, maps and brochures on the wine trail, restaurants, places of interest, special events and accommodation options. And no worries, you're in carefree
New Zealand.
John Blanchette is a freelance travel writer.
Discuss
this article in the Readers' Forum
Info
on John Blanchette
Copyright © 2003 - 2008 Splash Magazines Worldwide. All rights reserved.
Top of Page
|
