Tango in the Street
The Streets of Buenos Aires
Plaza de Mayo
These facts do not dampen my enthusiasm for the city. However, many tourists may be ill-prepared to have flown thousands of miles and have nothing but a handful of historic sights to see. There is history to be seen and experienced here, it just isn't as well-known or well-laid out and explained as you will find in New York or Paris for example. That's why after you have spent a day seeing the major sights, my recommendation is to enjoy the shopping, dining/nightlife, and to partake of the inexpensive services that Buenos Aires is currently offering. And with this bit of insider information you can have a spectacular time here.
Antiques Market
Local Crafts in the Market
What you may hear most from young people who have come back from Buenos Aires is that the biggest draw and focus was the nightlife. This is a city that never sleeps and if you go here to visit, I suggest you don't sleep either. Even if you can only make it until 2 am, you'll see what I'm talking about. If you're getting in your cab at that time, you'll feel like you're leaving the party early. The streets will still be filled with people, most of the restaurants and bars will still be open, and it just won't seem late. I've been drinking after dinner at a restaurant in this city to suddenly discover that it's 5 am. Several bottles of wine were involved, but no matter, that would never happen to me in Denver because we would have been asked to leave the restaurant several hours earlier so that they could close. In Buenos Aires, when we left the restaurant was still half-full even though the sun was coming up. [See RESTAURANTS/NIGHTLIFE below].
One very touristy thing to do is to go to a tango show, and if you truly want to do this, then by all means do so. But many of these shows are really overpriced ($100 and up) and even though they usually include dinner, it's usually not a bargain by Argentine standards. There are tanquerias, the most famous of which is La Confiteria Ideal, that allow regular people to come and dance with partners of their choice. The best part is watching the others dance because this is where you'll see the real show. Some of the characters in these places will stick with you for the rest of your life. For instance the 80 year old man in plaid pants belted up to his chest that came in with his 60 year old "arm candy" in a tight red dress and jet black wig. They cut a rug across La Confiteria Ideal that was unmatched by any professional I saw in shows, on the street, or anywhere. I was mesmerized not by their superb ability they actually were pretty good but by their showmanship. And it felt real, which is something I never got in the fancy shows.
La Confiteria Ideal
So if you are going to Buenos Aires, be prepared to forge your own path. Shopping, eating and going out at night should be the basis of your agenda when planning a trip here. There's just one more thing that I can't fail to mention and that (especially if you are a woman) you can't fail to miss: the cheap services.
Hairdresser
Then I realized that this service bonanza extended to other types of services as well. Because one of my trips to Buenos Aires was a month long stay in an apartment, I needed housecleaners and laundering services as well. Well maybe I didn't need them, but after I heard the prices I just couldn't deny myself. I was shocked to find that the launderers would come to my house to pick up my items, wash, dry and fold them in the same day and then hand deliver them back to me at the cost of about $3 a load. And the cleaners came once a week and cleaned the apartment top to bottom for $5. I actually felt guilty paying so little and quite often bumped up the price, but of course this was unnecessary. They were happy to have the work. That's why I say, while you are in Buenos Aires, live like a king. Have a massage and get your hair done every day, and get a manicure/pedicure at least once a week. And don't be afraid to send out laundry, or have cleaners come to your apartment everyday if you want. It's well worth it and it helps the local economy too.
In order to get around to all of your appointments, shops and restaurants you will need to take taxis in this huge city. There is a great metro system (el subte) but for the small price difference you can't beat the convenience of a taxi. Taxis are always easy to find, and cheap, but you will rarely find a driver that speaks much English. Brush up on at least a few words of Spanish and you may find it easier to get your point across. The good news is you will rarely find an impatient or surly Argentinean, taxi drivers included. But you may end up the one frustrated and antsy on your vacation.
Gaucho Guide in Mendoza
But if you plan to travel to Buenos Aires and spend more than a day or two in the city, you should know that you will either need to study your South American history before you go, or be prepared to immerse yourself in days of walking and shopping and nights (and mornings) of eating, drinking and dancing. Buenos Aires is different than many of the major international cities that attract tourism not many tourists know very much about the history of the country, let alone the city. And because Buenos Aires is just now beginning to recover from its past economic devastation, and to really attract strong tourism, it is unprepared to explain it all to you. So you will need to treat this trip differently than a trip to Prague, and this distinction is important for those of you hoping to be future tourists of Buenos Aires. Because if you visit here with a guidebook in hand hoping it will serve as your compass for more than a day of travel, you may well leave disappointed.
DAY TRIPS:
Mendoza (by plane or overnight bus). The highlights of this excursion would be renting a car and driving around the "little Napa Valley" to taste the local wines, especially the Malbec, which is fantastic. Also try taking a guided horseback ride into the Andes foothills. Contact: Kahuak Turismo Aventura, www.kahuak.com.ar
Vineyard in Mendoza Beneath the Andes
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay (by boat). An interesting insight into the neighboring country of Uruguay and an inexpensive day trip by boat from Buenos Aires. Contact: Buquebus, www.buquebus.com
Mar del Plata (by bus). The nearest Argentinean beach to Buenos Aires, it is overrun with Argentinean tourists in the summer. A few hours from Buenos Aires. Contact: A Local Travel Agent
Iguazu Falls (by bus or plane). A sight reminiscent of Niagara Falls, a pricey trip and a long distance from Buenos Aires, but a gorgeous piece of nature. Contact: A Local Travel Agent
*Day trips can be pricey so choose wisely. Argentina is huge and hard to get around and trains are not as accessible as they are in Europe. You will need to either take a plane or a bus to most out of these locations.
RESTAURANTS/NIGHTLIFE
La Morelia, Baez 260, Las Canitas, tel. 4772-0329 (amazing pizza)
Olsen, Gorriti 5870, Palermo Viejo, tel. 4776-7677 (cool scandinavian restaurant with vodkas from around the world)
Gran Bar Danzon, Libertad 1161, Barrio Norte, 4811-1108 (very cool late night wine bar)
La Confiteria Ideal, Suipacha 384, Centro, tel. 5265-8069 (old-school tanqueria)
Cluny, El Salvador 4618, Palermo Soho, 4831-7176 (relaxed and sophisticated dining)
SHOPS
Teal Deconstructed Jacket (and Bag from Elementos)
Mandarine, Honduras 4940, Palermo Viejo, tel. 4833-0094 (shoes, bags, belts)
Fortunata Allegria, Gurruchaga 1739, Palermo Viejo, tel. 4831-8197 (funky clothing)
SERVICE NAMES IN SPANISH
Lavanderia (Laundry)
Manos/Pies (Manicure/Pedicure)
Masajes (Massages)
Peluqueria (Hairstyling)
Depilacion (Waxing)