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LASplash.com: New York Restaurant Reviews SavorNY Review – Celebrate the Flavors of New York at SavorNY By Steve Pasek and Jackie Bookman
In search of the ultimate New York dining experience, we were drawn to SavorNY’s interesting concept, a “pan-New York” fusion approach to tapas. The owner, Craig Gross, told us that he took influences from all the different cultures and ethnic groups in New York, and specifically from the area around the restaurant (thus the name “ SavorNY”). Served tapas style, with small dishes, everything is meant to be shared in a relaxed, mellow environment. He also explained that the reasonably-priced wine pairings are meant to subtly complement the dishes without overpowering them .
The laid-back bistro is tucked away in a newly-trendy pocket of the Lower East Side, on Clinton near Rivington, just north of where the Williamsburg Bridge makes landfall. SavorNY is the perfect place for a first (or second or third) date: the size of the room, the lighting, the use of natural materials and soft tones, conspire to create an atmosphere that is romantic and cozy. Since the portions are designed to be shared, it would also be interesting to go with a group, and order a number of items on the menu. An eclectic mix of music played the night we were there, including ethnic music and some Britpop, mixed with a healthy sampling of Ramones, which created a lively atmosphere. The menu is divided into “Fingers” and “Forks”—finger foods and foods that are better eaten with a fork. We were served two courses with three dishes apiece; each course included two “lighter” dishes with a “richer” dish. Craig first brought out three of the finger foods: Grilled Vegetable Samosas with Coconut Curry Sauce, Speck Wrapped Pear with Gorgonzola and Pancetta, and Cod Fritters with Chipotle and Mango Sauce. He paired the first course with a 2007 Santa Isabel Torrontes from Argentina, and a 2005 Surly Chenin Blanc from California. The Samosas had a flaky puff-pastry crust wrapped around slivers of crunchy vegetables, which Steve thought had an earthy undertone like morel mushrooms. We both preferred the pastry crust to the usual deep-fried shell. This was one of our favorites, the vegetable filling was spicy, and the coconut curry sauce was rich but not overpowering, smoky with a sweet follow.
As a contrast to the Samosas, the speck wrapped pear was the opposite—sweet with a smoky follow. Jackie noted that the Gorgonzola provides a sharp balance, which came almost as a surprise. It brought the dish together in a pleasing way. It was served on a bed of slivered snow peas in a citrusy vinaigrette, which could have been a dish on its own.
The flavor of the Cod Fritters was mild at first, but the chipotle sauce gave it a nice kick. The balance of flavors was less delicate than the other two items, but was a good complement to the spicier dishes. Craig told us that the items were meant to balance flavor between spicy and sweet, and dishes, between heavy and light. So the Speck Wrapped Pear and Samosas were lighter, while the Cod Fritters were slightly heavier. Both wines that were paired with this course were crisp and unobtrusive; the Chenin Blanc was excellent with the spicier items—refreshing to a tongue tingling after chipotle. The wines also served as a good palate cleanser between this trio of items. Next, Craig brought out a trio of “Fork” foods—a Calamari Salad with Fennel, Tomato, and Cider Vinaigrette; a Tuna Ceviche with Tomato, Onion, Cilantro, and Jalapeno; and a house favorite, the Rice Ball with Buffalo Mozzarella and Tomato Sauce — maintaining the balance of two lighter dishes and one heavier. He paired the “Fork” dishes with a 2004 Kilikanoon Riesling from Australia, and a 2004 Neumayer Gruner Veltliner from Austria. Steve thought that the star of the Calamari Salad was the fennel, and that it added a crisp texture like watercress, and infused the vinegar with a sweet-and-sour anise lilt. He also said that: “Squid generally has more texture than flavor, and serving it in this fashion provided it with foils on both counts.”
The tuna ceviche had the texture and richness of tender steak tartare, with the pico de gallo bed increasing the intensity with each bite. The presentation was colorful, served with puffed-rice shrimp chips in a range of pastel colors, which also made it fun to eat. Jackie also thought the tuna had a smooth texture and rich taste, and liked that the dish was flavorful but subtle. The chips, which seemed at first simply a garnish, enhanced the flavor of the tuna.
The Rice Ball was an inventive take on risotto, covered in buffalo mozzarella, lightly fried and served in a tomato sauce. This was a wonderfully rich dish that alternated well with the more tart seafood items. Jackie thought it would be great comfort food, and would be especially good on a cold winter day. This dish could definitely be shared by more than two persons.
The wines paired with the second three items enhanced the distinct palate of flavors included in the dishes, which was more of a “tart and tangy” riff. The Veltliner was fruitier and balanced the spiciness of the ceviche, and the Riesling extended the citrus and vinegar notes of the calamari salad. Craig then brought two dessert wines: a Mavro, which he told us was one of the oldest wines made in Greece, and described it as “a lighter version of a ruby port”; and a white port, which he told us was a spicy wine, with hints of almond and cinnamon. The desserts also came as a trio, Craig brought us a sampler of chocolate chip, almond and cranberry cookies, cinnamon cheesecake on graham cracker, and flourless chocolate cake. The sampler varies nightly, and was a perfect way to try the desserts—we could try a little of each one, maintaining the tapas approach. Steve said it was “like a dessert aperitif.” We both thought the cheesecake, with a graham-cracker crust that was spiced almost like a macaroon, was terrific, and that the chocolate cake was creamy, like a chocolate truffle. Jackie’s favorite was the cheesecake, while Steve happily ate both of the flourless chocolate cake bites, and the cookies as well.
The Mavro tasted like a muscatel crossed with a port or sherry. The sweetness would have been a perfect close to the dinner on its own, but was also great paired with the desserts. The White Port was also well suited to the dessert, and would appeal to those who don’t like wines as sweet as the Mavro. The menu at SavorNY has enough items on it to support multiple visits, and since different menu items amplify and complement flavors in each other, we thought it would be a great experiment to return and see what flavors would be teased out of our palates by different combinations. Overall, SavorNY is a great foodie jaunt, with innovative combinations served in a casual and relaxed atmosphere, and portions that were more than filling. Combining richer dishes with lighter ones kept the courses balanced and grounded. After experiencing the inventiveness of one set of flavor and texture combinations, paired with excellent wine recommendations, we look forward to trying additional ones, which, after all, is the real fun of eating out. SavorNY: http://www.savornyrestaurant.com/ 63 Clinton Street, New York, NY 10002 Phone: 212.358.7125 Fax: 212.358.7126 Hours: Sun - Tues: 5pm to 11pm, Wed &Thurs: 5pm to 12am, Fri& Sat: 5pm to 1am SavorNY also offers a 4-course menu with wine pairings for $55. Published Oct 21, 2008 © Copyright 2003-2004 by LA Splash.com |
