Approaching Jarnac

Jarnac, a cozy country French bistro, sits tucked away on a quiet stretch of 12th Street in the West Village.  Soft lighting, salmon colored-walls, just 14 tables, and large windows give this restaurant its charm.  My friend James, who was visiting from Pennsylvania, had eaten at Jarnac before and suggested we go there.  He and I sat at a round table with a view.  A mild April breeze streamed in through the opened windows, and we gazed out at the brick buildings and narrow streets of Greenwich Village.  The restaurant was almost empty when we arrived at seven o’clock on a Saturday night, but an hour later, it was packed.  The crowd was youngish, international, casual but sophisticated, with a few middle-aged and older diners, too. 

Preparing something wonderful

From the first, our waitress was welcoming and knowledgeable. The wine list contained a nice variety.  The Bordeau we ordered, Chateau Moulniere, was flavorful, smooth, and a good value.  The slices of baguette were fresh, accompanied by olive oil.  James and I decided to split a salad, a cascade of organic mescaline greens with a light Balsamic Vinaigrette, large enough for two.  More exotic appetizers were offered on the menu as well – fennel soup, duck rillettes with toast, ricotta dumplings in brown butter and sage, and sauté of white asparagus among others.

Jarnac’s menu changes daily, depending on what is fresh on the market.  All entrees were reasonably priced.  James chose the braised beef “Carbonade” in Guinness Stout and carmelized onions, which sat on a bed of garlic mashed potatoes.   I tried roasted salmon with preserved meyer lemon zest, black olives and confit of garlic. 

One Thursday special

The beef was tender, and the Guinness Stout added spice and richness to the sauce, he said.  The salmon was delicious, served with flavorful olives and a wheat berry pilaf.  The menu included other innovative entrees such as grilled black angus ribeye “ Jarnac” with arugula, fried organic egg and sottocenere; roasted baby chicken with walnut butter; a wild striped bass; leg of duck; and cassoulet.

Although we didn’t choose side dishes, these looked appealing -- sautéed haricots verts; braised red cabbage and onion; and roasted yukon gold potatoes with shallots. 

The food was beautifully presented, delivered to us in generous portions and at a perfect temperature.  The service was terrific.  Our waitress was a dancer who grew up in Argentina and had lived in Australia.  She, like everyone who helped us, was personable and efficient.   We felt pampered.  Although we passed on dessert, giving up the chance to sample an enticing array of artisan cheeses (which James had eaten in the past and said were excellent) as well as pastries and cakes, we were pleasantly surprised when our waitress brought complimentary madelienes and two glasses of a delicious red liquor Muscat, just sweet enough for a finish to our meal.

Considering what to order

Tony Powe, the owner and maitre D’ stopped at each table to talk to the diners.  Our exchanges with him, with our waiter and waitress plus Jarnac’s rustic country ambiance gave the evening an intimacy, as if we were in a lovely French village dining at a favorite spot.  We ate leisurely, at our own pace, without being rushed.  

A prix fix dinner is also available for $37.00.

Jarnac is located at 328 West 12th Street, New York, New York 10014.  212-924-3413.  It is open from 6-10 on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday.  On Friday and Saturday the hours are from 6-11, and for Sunday brunch, 11-3.  The restaurant seats 35 people. The largest table can accommodate seven.  Reservations can be made by phone or online.  More information on its website go  here.

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