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Outside Shochu
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Back in February, Lynne Wallack and John Handler, owners of Lakeview’s Deleece, and Josh Hansen, Deleece’s chef, talked about their concept for a new restaurant that would introduce Chicagoans to shochu, a Japanese liquor that has been outselling sake in Japan since 2003. Hansen said he was creating interesting combinations of Japanese/Asian tastes to be served tapas-style. Ever since, I have been waiting for Shochu, the restaurant. . . and in April it opened on Clark Street’s restaurant row.
Sage-y greens on walls and banquettes, exposed brick walls, and black wood-grained tables create a sense of calm. Tables are well spaced and the music is low, making conversation easy. Empty when my guest, Nancy, and I arrived at 6:30 on a Wednesday night, Shochu was filling up as we left. Our server, Gerson Dacanay, said that by 8:30, Shochu is busy.
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Shochu Cocktails
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After learning that we knew little about shochu, Gerson explained it can be made from buckwheat, barley, rice, or even sweet potatoes, and it is a healthy drink! It contains urikanase, an enzyme that has been shown to reduce the risk of heart attack and stroke, break down blood clots, and (possibly) increase longevity. With a smile, Gerson said shochu, with only about 20 calories per ounce (vodka has 60), doesn’t cause hangovers. Shochu’s bartenders serve the spirit straight up or mixed in a variety of cocktails. Nancy began with a Kiyo – made with rice shochu, lychee and green apple; she said it was light and delicious. I thoroughly enjoyed a Red Dragon – a mix of rice shochu, triple sec, and lime juice given a slightly sour edge by pomegranate. Later, I tried a delightful Toyo-tama, barley shochu muddled with raspberries, liquor 43, lime juice, lemon and soda. These great drinks will be perfect on Shochu’s back patio this summer.
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Green curry duck breast
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I began with green curry duck breast garnished with mizuna salad; the curry sauce is pleasantly spicy, setting off the taste of the rare but tender duck.
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Skirt steak
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Nancy chose grilled skirt steak in butter lettuce with kimchee, pickled daikon, and a fabulous miso garlic puree I ate by itself. Served on square, white small plates, there was plenty to share and every taste was clear, interesting and different.
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Eggplant and Zucchini
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Although we had been told that the rest of our order would be spread out over time, our second choices were delivered by the kitchen while we were still enjoying the first. The simple yakitori-style Japanese grilled eggplant and zucchini skewers were overwhelmed by the spiciness of the first dishes. If you are ordering several dishes, be sure to ask for them to be spaced out because all the flavors deserve to be appreciated. Murmurs of approval rose from nearby tables as others enjoyed grilled octopus and edamame, great-looking adobo braised spare ribs, strawberry shiso salad and bacon wrapped quail breast.
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Sauces
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We had fun dipping crisp wasabi fries into each of Shochu’s 7 special sauces: wasabi avocado mayo, blueberry teriyaki, sansho bokoujou, sweet Thai chili, white soy dijon vinaigrette, and our favorites, persimmon hoisin and miso lychee aioli. The sauces come with all yakitori (grilled) and kara-age (fried) dishes.
Nancy turned her menu over and found sushi – maki, handrolls, and nigiri. For our last tastes, we ordered pimenton kampachi (yellowfin tuna) with fresh basil and saffron rice and crab, smoked duck pate and carrot. We devoured every bit of the kampachi – it was spicy, smooth and absolutely wonderful.
We had no room for dessert but, having enjoyed the basque cake prepared by Zach Maness, (pastry chef for both Deleece and Shochu), I’m intrigued by lychee basque cake with sweet blueberry soy sauce. I'm also curious about chocolate mousse trifle with chocolate wasabi crème anglaise.
There are lots of choices at Shochu. The many small plates and fifteen shochus, Japanese and American beers and ales, wines and sake make up an interesting and satisfying menu. Shochu opens at 5pm and serves until 2am Sunday through Friday and 3am on Saturday, making it a perfect spot to drop in any time during weekend nights, or check out Sunday brunch on the patio.
Shochu
3313 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL 60657-1603
773-348-3313
Valet parking available - street parking is very tight.
http://www.shochuchicago.com
Photos: Cindy Kurman
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