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Looking at Ja'Grill, vintage building with bay window
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When a restaurateur invests his money, time and his passion,
success is inevitable.
Tony
Coates, owner of
Ja’
Grill Restaurant & Bar in
Lincoln
Park, is passionate about Jamaican cuisine.
Coates has lived all over the
United
States, but living most of his life outside of
Washington,
DC has exposed him to the many
tastes around the world.
From African to
Chinese to Indian and Spanish cuisine to name a few, Coates fell in love with
Jamaican cuisine.
Thus, reflecting the
diversity of
Jamaica,
and perhaps that of Coates’s own life.
Settling in
Chicago with his wife, who
is Filipino, and 3 children, he met native Jamaican Chef Herbert (Erroll)
Gallimore, who ran his own restaurant on the south side of
Chicago.
Coates regularly trekked to the south side to
eat Chef Erroll authentic Jamaican cuisine.
Their relationship reached its peak when Chef Erroll offered to cook in
Coates’s own kitchen for an event he was hosting.
This lead to a collaboration which evolved
into
Ja’ Grill.
Chef Erroll runs the
back, while Coates keeps things welcoming and comfortable in the front.
Together, they lend boutique-y
Armitage
Avenue a little Jamaican heat.
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Bob Marley mural
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Copper
tabletops, deep rose and gold banquettes and exposed brick walls give the
casual room warmth. The Jamaican theme is underscored by Paul Alexander’s wall
mural of Bob Marley and Phil Flash’s black and white 1970’s photographs of
Jamaicans. Reggae music enhances the ambiance at a level that makes
conversation easy. Darius, the dread-locked bartender, doubles as D.J. The
muted sound on five flat-screened TVs allows patrons to see scores and
news without taking away from the focus on food and drink.
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Darius as DJ with vintage photos behind
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Ja’
Grill
prides
itself on its rums showcased on a glowing back wall. Our friendly, attentive
waiter, Devin Matloff, told us how much he enjoys working at
Ja’ and suggested
and thoroughly explained many of the drinks and dishes served at
Ja'. My “Dark
n’ Stormy” was a tall glass of Gosling’s rum carefully afloat Barritts ginger
beer – a great drink anytime, and I’m going back for it as the weather warms.
My friend, Becca, chose a “Negril Stinger” Appleton Special with Tia Maria, and
described it as smooth and refreshing.
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Looking at the bar
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Becca’s
starter was a beef pattie, a classic Jamaican turnover-like pastry stuffed with
spiced ground beef. The spice was gentle but had an after-kick - the
Jamaican way to spice food. I chose fish soup, full of chunks of fresh fish,
potatoes, carrots, and dumplings. The aroma was heady, the flavor deep and
rich.
Becca
had the half jerk chicken (also available as a quarter) – the white meat was
tender and moist, and the dark meat grilled perfectly. It is served with a
separate cup of jerk sauce for added heat, mild or hot. It is
the Scotch Bonnets (jamaican peppers) that adds the extra kick for
the hot jerk sauce. I chose curried goat, another signature dish
emblematic of the country’s cuisine. The goat was fall-off-the-bone tender,
juicy and delicious, and the pleasantly spicy gravy was great with the
just-dry-enough rice and peas. The Jamaican hardough bread added another
authentic note and it is sometimes used to soak up the wonderfully spiced
curry.
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Signature dish, Jerk chicken, cabbage and carrots, and plantains
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Other
signature dishes include red snapper prepared escoveitch style (colorful medly
of pepper, onions in a light vinegar sauce). There is a broad selection
of jerk dishes - shrimp, pork and a jerk skirt steak another customer
clearly enjoyed. The menu also includes other fresh fish, vegetarian selections
and interesting salads. All entrees are served with rice and peas, sautéed
cabbage and carrots, and sweet plantains, but many can be ordered à la
Carte.
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Signature fish dish, Red Snapper escoveitch
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Desserts are not a focus of Jamaican food - meals often finish with the
wonderful fresh fruits of the island. But
Ja’ is in Chicago, and there
are cakes and sorbets on the menu. The Bomba is a thin white chocolate shell
surrounding a ball of sorbet - half mango, half passion fruit centered with
raspberry. The mango was mellow, the passion fruit a bright contrast. Becca
chose the warm, light melt-in-your mouth bread pudding baked with apples and topped
with warm caramel sauce.
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Signature drink, Ja'rum punch
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We ended a great, relaxed meal with the signature
smooth Ja' Rum Punch (3 rums, special blends of tropical juices topped with
fruit) and checked out the basement-level lounge, a place to wait in cold
Chicago winters or continue after-dinner conversation.
Ja’ Grill
looks forward to beginning sidewalk cafe service in spring and summer and to
being part of Chicago’s Reggae Festival in August.
We look forward to a waking dream of Jamaica as we sit in the sun and sip rum
punch at
Ja’.
Ja’ Grill Restaurant & Lounge
1008 West Armitage
773-929-JERK (5375)
Open for lunch and dinner,
Ja’ is kid-friendly - the kids have their own
menu. Hours - Sun-Wed 11 am - 10 pm; Thur 11 am - 11 pm; Fri-Sat 11 am - 2 am.
Reservations strongly suggested on weekends. Appetizers - $3-$6; entrees with
sides $13 - $15 ($20 for red snapper); kids’ menu $4-$6. Metered parking
available on Armitage.
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