Many restaurants with buzz deserve their reputation but serve an unfortunate side dish of pretension -- which interferes with a true fine dining experience. Eve, named as a "sister" restaurant to Tallulah, had enough advance buzz to warrant concern, but our fears were allayed immediately both by the warm welcome from the hostess and the relaxed yet elegant white and black decor.

Inside Eve (photo-Cindy Kurman)

With clean lines, and updated versions of mirrors, chandeliers, and seating, the restaurant, conceived by owner Matt Fisher and designed by Lori Mukoyama, is a modernist take on a fifties lounge. The main room is large, but designed with lots of intimate space, and even as the room filled up we had the feeling of being in our own private area. A side room can be portioned off with lightweight draperies for large groups. For those who want really private space, there is a back room, with media equipment, that can be accessed through a separate entrance. Lucite partitions embedded with money-tree plant or grasses create partitions between room areas, conceal the wine racks, and screen off a private room. The comfortable space lends itself well to the unpretentious approach of the menu. Both Tallulah and Eve share Troy Graves as their executive chef.

We asked our waiter Brian, who also manages Eve, for recommendations. Brian started us off with two excellent appetizers, which highlight the eclectic way that food meets the plate here. Grilled Lobster Sausage was delicate with hints of nutty spice, like allspice and celery root, and garnished with a bright, sweet sauce with bits of smoky bacon and woody chanterelle mushrooms.

Grilled Lobster Sausage

The second appetizer was Spicy Pomegranate Glazed Prawns with Pumpkin Panna Cotta, and when it arrived, the presentation was so striking, like a little flan castle with shrimp on top, that we didn’t want to take a fork to it. When we did, we were treated to a tart and spicy dish, with the pomegranate and nutmeg flavors battling for dominance of our tastebuds.

Spicy Pomegranate Glazed Prawns with Pumpkin Panna Cotta

Both dishes provided a combination of texture and flavor that would become familiar throughout the meal: delicate, often smooth dishes, such as the panna cotta or the sausage, intensified by heavier flavors and crisp or chewy textures, with an underlying balance of sweet and savory.

For the next course we shared a Baby Spinach Salad with White Asparagus, Poached Egg, Almonds, and Buttermilk Parmesan Dressing, and a Duck Consomme with Duck Rillete Pot Sticker, Green Papaya, and Lemongrass Essence. The salad seemed a nouvelle take on a Caesar, rich and delicious. The softness of the egg, contrasted with the thickly grated parmesan, created yet another taste sensation. The blanched almonds added a pleasant crunch. This salad was a stand-out, and, judging by the large numbers of this dish that we saw being served, a house specialty. It is definitely a must-order.

Baby Spinach Salad with White Asparagus, Poached Egg, Almonds, and Buttermilk Parmesan Dressing

The consommé, was an interesting and delicate broth that we savored while trying to reverse-engineer the ingredients. It had a slightly citrus flavor that we guessed was from the lemongrass, and thin papaya slices that served as crunchy noodles. A salty-sweet undertone came from the crispy duck pot-stickers, fried in olive oil, which rested at the bottom of the bowl. It was another delicate flavor and texture balance that was done perfectly, avoiding the tilt toward bitter that can occur when these contrasting flavors are not handled carefully.

Duck Consomme with Duck Rillete Pot Sticker, Green Papaya, and Lemongrass Essence

The entrees had a hard act to follow, but, if anything, built on the delightful taste combinations and flavors of the appetizers. Monkfish with Sweet Potato Frisee, Grilled Apple, Brown Beech Mushroom, and a Lobster Miso Buerre Blanc sauce had a crisp exterior texture and a buttery interior like Sea Bass. The tiny but flavorful Brown Beeches, which resemble straw mushrooms, and the miso sauce, with a sweet reduction, once again gave this dish an Asian feel. The yams and apples anchored the dish with both a chunky texture and a smoky molasses-like counterpoint to the salty miso. This was a very tasty and innovative dish.

Monkfish with Sweet Potato Frisee, Grilled Apple, Brown Beech Mushroom, and a Lobster Miso Buerre Blanc

The Pheasant Breast Pheasant Confit & Medjool Date Crepinette, with Rapini, and Smoked Bacon Vinaigrette, recommended by Brian, was a standout, and again, a must order. The first bite rendered an explosion of citrus flavor, and as the citrus receded, the sweet and smoky swirl of dates and bacon hit the part of the palate you would normally expect for a roasted game bird, yet the meat was succulent and juicy. The rapini was a suitable bed for the confit and dates, which again repeated the sweet-and-salty motif, and in this context its natural bitterness served almost as a condiment.

Pheasant Breast Pheasant Confit & Medjool Date Crepinette, with Rapini, and Smoked Bacon Vinaigrette

We noticed that the sauces for both entrees took on a slightly different flavor with the main course and the side dishes. The monkfish, for example, took on a lobster flavor from the Buerre Blanc sauce, while the mushrooms tasted smoky. This was enjoyable and surprising, almost as if two different sauces had been created for the same meal.

We found that the first wine pairing recommended, Henry HRW Cabernet, from Napa had a hints of currant, with a nice oaky follow, and it stood up well through multiple courses, a counterpoint to the spice in many of the dishes. A second wine recommendation, the Stoller JV Pinot Noir, was an excellent pairing with the pheasant as well as the monkfish, and even heartier than the Cabernet, with strong berry flavors that enhanced the sweet and smoky elements of both the entrees. We enjoyed the Stoller enough that we determined to find a way to purchase some for ourselves.

Eve puts an entertaining twist on the dinner cocktail with names which all play on the name of the restaurant in one way or another. A concoction of Grey Goose Pear, Marie Brizard, Pear Nectar, Champagne, Fresh Mint, and Lavender essence reminded Steve of Hungarian palinka, a very refreshing, sweet experience that disguises a high alcohol content. The lavender at the bottom gave it a juniper-like finish. The vodka, pressed fennel and orange cocktail would appeal to vodka aficionados. We agreed that both cocktails were a three-stage experience, akin to the layers of an ice cream sundae, since each of them had distinct flavors that reside in the top, middle, and bottom of the glass.

We barely had enough room for dessert, but split a chocolate bread pudding
confection topped with peanut butter ice cream and chocolate, a nearly
overwhelming array of flavors.

We barely had enough room for dessert, but split a chocolate bread pudding confection topped with peanut butter ice cream and chocolate, a nearly overwhelming array of flavors

The publicity materials mentioned that Chef Troy Graves served in the military, and the food is so good that it would be worth enlisting if it meant a steady supply of his artistry at the mess hall. Graves' style is similar to Asian/French fusion, but not in obvious or expected ways, combining techniques, spices, and presentation in an organic combination of influences that seem natural. The results call to mind that one of the definitions of elegance is simplicity.

The service was attentive, but unobtrusive, water was replaced, and dishes were removed quickly, and there was enough space between courses to allow us to savor the wine and even to enjoy conversations of some depth. Eve would make an excellent romantic-dinner destination, though easily accommodates groups as well, and would be an excellent venue for a celebration. The portions were very satisfying and a good value, as were the wine prices. Cocktails are novel, and provide an excellent precursor to the palate workout that the menu provides.

Eve also notes that the restaurant uses a variety of "green" practices to improve sustainability, and if our meal is any indication, that’s not the only reason it will be around for a while. Eve provides a fine dining experience in a comfortable atmosphere, with a casual pace and intimate feel that would endear you even if its menu wasn’t an intriguing adventure. Celebrate the true meaning of casual elegance with a visit.

Eve Restaurant
840 N. Wabash
Chicago IL 60611
(312) 266-3383

http://www.evechicago.com/

Hours: Monday — Friday, 11:00 a.m. — 10:00 p.m.
           Saturday, 5:00 p.m. — 11:00 p.m.
           Sunday, 5:00 p.m.— 9:00 p.m.

Photos: Cincy Kurman, Steve Pasek

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