Last Thanksgiving, a new culinary gem was added to the popular lineup of the quickly expanding restaurants at The Shops on Butterfield in Lombard.  When Derek Rettell, a chef and partner with Mike Dunlay, Doug Dunlay, and Josh Rutherford, who each split time between their six restaurants and wine bars in the city, were approached with the proposal of opening a D.O.C. Wine Bar in Lombard, they were enthusiastic.  Rettell and his partners wanted to separate themselves from the rest of the Butterfield crowd, which includes restaurants like Brio, Ra, and Harry Caray's.  "We wanted to try and bring our urban neighborhood concept to the suburbs," said Rettell,  And that is exactly what they have achieved with their modernly understated, boutique steakhouse-style eatery with a big-time menu.

The D.O.C. Wine Bar location in Lincoln Park has been popular since its opening in April of 2005.  D.O.C., an acronym standing for "Denominazione di Origine Controllata" meaning Controlled Denomination of Origin in Italian is Italy's equivalent to France's Appelation D'Origine Controlee.  D.O.C.s are defined by the geographic area of production for each wine, the varieties that can be used, the minimum alcohol content, the maximum yield, and the specifications for aging.  In short, D.O.C.s are the best of the best.  Rettell and his partners took this basic concept out to Lombard and enhanced it with a full menu of gastronomic goodness.

The partnership between Rettell and his three other associates was established six years ago, and this experience shines through especially at the new location.  The bar at the forefront of the restaurant places the wine at center stage.  Shelves upon shelves of wine frame the area, and windows into the massive wine cellar which houses over four thousand bottles could make any wino drop jaw.  The interior design is minimalist in a suburban sort of way.  Modern lighting hangs from the ceilings illuminating each booth for a more private feeling among guests.  Wall decor is discreet and unfussy, forcing the focus onto the food and wine.

Dinner started with a glass of Prosecco sparkling wine and an international medley of cheeses presented on sturdy butcher blocks made of cedar, oak, and cherry wood.  Goat cheese from Italy, aged Gouda, a California Humboldt Fog, and an Australian blue cheese, to name just a few, were accented with a delicate, sugary apricot and merlot jam.  The white bean bruschetta was surprisingly light and fluffy with a balsamic reduction drizzled atop.  The chorizo-stuffed medjool dates with piquillo pepper sauce is a favorite among the very knowledgeable wait-staff.  Smoky and sweet, wrapped in a sheath of glazed bacon, there is a slight suggestion of barbeque flavor to them.  But to order appetizers without including the wild mushroom risotto fritters would be pure D.O.C. sacrilege.  Light and crunchy, with just a hint of unexpected sweetness, they are the perfect wholesome indulgence.

Cooked spinach with bits of garlic and olive oil mashed potatoes sat aside a well-seasoned fillet, pinked to perfection, served with a glass of the Cuvee Alexandre cabernet from the Casa Lapostolle vineyard in Chile.  The iron skillet baked warm chocolate chip cookie at the finale, however, was the real kicker.  Vanilla ice cream and rum caramel seeped into the pores of the gooey, baked mess and tasted naughtier than a cookie-dough-eating-contest on a lonely Valentine's Day.

The restaurants like D.O.C. Wine Bar that are popping up like weeds in springtime at Butterfield are Lombard's response to the urban sprawl into the area.  Traveling out to Lombard from the downtown area is surely no easy feat for urbanites who can find just about anything their mouths water for at their Michigan Avenue doorsteps without traveling close to an hour in frosty temperatures and bumper-to-bumper traffic.  But this swanky little joint isn't for the city-chic, but the suburban-stylish.  Indeed, Lombard's popularity has just recently escalated, and increasing numbers of young couples are packing up and moving west.  In fact, the typical clientele at D.O.C.'s has a balanced range between the twenty- and thirty-somethings and the older, professional crowds.  Quiet, contemporary, cozy, and delectable?  Almost makes a city-dweller want to follow suit and relocate too.

Don't expect to see any more new restaurants from Derek and his partners any time soon.  Rettell has a lot on his plate right now, figuratively-speaking, with his first baby on the way and five other restaurants to look after.  We'll all just have to praise Bacchus and the Gods of Gastronomy for these wonderful bistros and patiently await their next brainchild. 

D.O.C. Wine Bar is open every day for lunch and dinner.  For more information or to make reservations, please call (630) 627-6666 or visit www.docwinebarchicago.com.

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