For Spring 2013, Monique Lhuillier was having a one if by land, two if by sea design moment. She was inspired by water and life at the sea and while themes in nature have come to be expected for spring-summer collections, these looks had more gravitas and depth than the typical floral print. Perhaps it was her use of digital imagery and quite literally oversized scales. Three prints (crane feathers, oversized koi, and fish scales) anchored the presentation of 45 looks that perpetuated Ms. Lhuillier’s more mysterious side. In recent seasons, the designer has experimented with sultrier silhouettes (seamed and structured) in more provocative fabrications (leather and
There is an undeniably potent power play of silhouette and construction in this collection from the flutter of a kimono sleeve and the sleek hand of a seamed pant to the femininity of a peplum contouring and the trumpet flare all designed to mold curves, define the waist, and lengthen the body. Whether laser-cut or structured, leather was a major component once again this season, fearlessly and brilliantly manipulated with a series of confident dresses. One-shoulder, tiered, and asymmetric gowns also underscored the importance (and strength) of a more structured silhouette. The palette had a very gradient quality, starting with more graphic elements (ink, white), efore shifting into deeper, more oceanic colors (aqua, teal, midnight) and metallic, almost iridescent (oyster, seafoam, and sea glass).
“Evening is all about fluidity and movement, almost mermaid-like. Shimmering golds, sea glass beading in silhouette close to the body showing lots of skin to create a very sensual woman…” noted the liner notes, a preface of the red-carpet looks that would soon follow.
Loyalists needn’t fret, no matter how deep Ms. Lhuillier continues to dive, delve, and plunge into the oceans of her more wickedly mysterious side, she will never entirely shed her delicate sensibilities. Shell embroideries tailored to sparkling perfection; illusion necklines inset for a sensual effect; and embroidered tulle for that elegant romanticism were the luminescent forces to be reckoned with throughout the evening gowns featured during the latter half of the presentation.
My favorite looks from the Monique Lhuillier Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear Collection included: the ink cane two-ply crepe twisted kimono-sleeve blouse with ink crane and wool seamed pant; the ink pearlized leather one-shoulder asymmetric sculpted dress; the teal scale silk canvas pleated peplum top with teal scale silk canvas seamed pencil skirt; the aqua threadwork organza structured dress with silver foil splash; the noir jacquard strapless pleated peplum bodice with embroidered front and noir wool seamed pant; the ink koi crepe georgette one-shoulder gown with embroidered detail; and the noir embroidered gown with pleated illusion tulle overlay.
For additional information, please visit http://moniquelhuillier.com/
Published on Jan 26, 2013