For Autumn-Winter 2012, Dennis Basso invited us on an excursion back to a bygone era of travel by rail and ocean liner when ladies packed elegant train cases for a fortnight’s journey, with “luggage stacked sky-high as a porter dutifully stands at attention...” Of course those modern adaptations might include a broadtail cosmetics case, a python backpack, a sable bag, or Finn raccoon tote. With a collection monikered “Mystery on the Orient Express,” the acclaimed furrier who has gradually been expanding his ready-to-wear collection in recent seasons—ironically, as more designers are incorporating fur accents into their designs—recaptured the romance and elegance of grandiose glamorous getaways.
“So, I took the journey and translated that feeling of glamorous evening and special days for today’s modern, international woman who wants to feel feminine and romantic,” noted Dennis Basso of his new collection.
Unveiled on Valentine’s Day to a runway soundtrack of Bjork’s “Army of Me” and Florence and the Machine’s “Spectrum,” the elegantly romantic collection remarkably retained a timeless transcendence. The design direction kept its preeminent foothold on yesteryear while reaching towards tomorrow. The aesthetic bellied both the nostalgic allure of grandeur that Dennis Basso has so brilliantly made a career of paying homage to and celebrated a graceful modernity for a contemporary woman traversing the globe.
As expected for the season, these 41 ensembles were highly-focused on luxurious outerwear in supremely
sumptuous textures such as the cashmere trench coats with Russian broadtail and duffle coats trimmed in raccoon. Dennis Basso has brilliantly infused his old-world aesthetic with elements of modernity; we saw chic almost sporty influences with fur vests, trims, and embroideries as well nontraditional accents of color in cayenne, aquamarine, and sapphire! For beauty, the hair was silky, upswept, and pulled off to the right side in a low ponytail. The eyes
were softly kohl-rimmed with the focus on a pretty, flaming red pout, which complimented the staid silver-greys and chocolate-browns as well as the cayenne dipped furs!
The silhouette was unapologetically ladylike with embroidered trapeze dresses, shirt and skirt pairings, and elegant evening gowns—once again in the most tactile fabrications of cashmere, silk georgette, leather, chiffon, organza, and silk tulle. The palette remained predominantly neutral in shades of alabaster, taupe, grey, navy, and black with the aforementioned hints of vibrant hues. Cashmere, leather, and silk georgette day separates were
the perfect compliment to the range of pelts shown throughout the collection from Russian sable, lynx, and chinchilla to fox, Lippi, and ermine.
My favorite looks from the Dennis Basso Fall 2012 Ready-to-Wear Collection included: an opal Russian sable and alabaster broadtail coat atop a silk georgette dress with a tiger’s eye python backpack; an alabaster two-toned double-face cashmere coat with a hand embroidered silk chiffon skirt, and smoke Finn raccoon and topaz sable bag; a rose quartz hand embroidered silk organza dress with a topaz Russian sable clutch; a hand-embroidered crystal quartz dress layered under a cayenne chinchilla vest; a black embroidered tulle gown with natural Russian Barguzin sable vest with a black sable and python clutch; a wood print chiffon gown; a black quilted Russian ermine and sable jacket with a black embroidered silk tulle dress; and a sapphire chinchilla and Lippi vest atop an embroidered mini dress with a python backpack.
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