As the lights fell down and plumes of smoke rose higher, a dramatic overture turned to a syncopated rhythm of David Lynch’s “Pinky’s Dream” and the first model sauntered out onto the Badgley Mischka Fall 2013 runway like a femme fatale from your favorite classic film noir might have. Inspired by a 1940’s Hitchcock Heroine, this muse was anything but a damsel in distress. She possessed an unbridled adventure, which was reflected in the strongly feminine silhouette—only one look featured trousers, a reinterpretation of Yves Saint Laurent’s famous Le Smoking tuxedo suit. The designing duo have never been ones to shy away from glamour, so even a simple sheath dress felt elevated in a metallic tweed and brocade. The collection’s 42 looks, which included both separates and stunning red carpet worthy gowns, felt decidedly moodier for autumn.
Peter Gray for Moroccan Oil created a high chignon with a reverse braid technique; Tom Pecheux for MAC Cosmetics mattified the face and defined the eyes with false lashes and a metallic liner before finishing with a bold orange-red lip; and Deborah Lippmann further enhanced the story behind this beauty look with almond shaped nails painted in Red Silk Boxers from her signature collection.
There was a subversive quality to the Badgley Mischka muse this season; she almost seemed to invite a sense of danger. The palette further underscored an air of mystery in ebony, topaz, smoke, jet, granite, midnight, pine, and blood red. The design details gave the collection an enhanced seductive quality, with raised and nipped waistlines, embroidered epaulettes, beaded and fringed details, and fishtail hems caressing every womanly curve; the models couldn’t help but languidly saunter down the runway. And these gowns looked as stunning exiting the runway as they did entering, often with exquisite embroidery and detailing throughout the posterior of each garment. The metallics, beadwork and brocades echoed that increasing wave of textural manipulation we’re seeing both in fashion and home décor. The shapes feel intensely magnified with the use of such luxurious fabrics and hand embroidery.
My favorite collections from the Badgley Mischka Fall 2013 Ready-to-Wear Collection included: the ebony fox vest, ebony cashmere shell, and ebony crepe skirt; the topaz fox vest and black crepe dress; the smoke boucle jersey and brocade gown; the taupe beaded cashmere twin set atop smoke metallic tweed skirt; the ebony beaded cashmere twin set with vertigo damask skirt; the nude chiffon gown; the ebony crepe and chiffon gown; and the jet, bronze, and pewter satin dress.
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