Ports 1961 Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection Review — Handcraefted

Creative Director Tia Cibani said that she wanted to explore the relationship between discovery and invention. Celebrated for her global inspirations with earlier collections referencing India, Canada, and Scotland, the wanderlust designer has been channeling a more introspective muse as of late. For the Ports 1961 Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection, the designer’s cerebral influence rooted one foot in the past and the other foot in the future, “simultaneously celebrating our history and our imminent tomorrow.” Marking the tension between technology and nature set the foundation for the presentation’s 47 looks.

Entitled “Craeft,” Ms. Cibani built her collection around a nuclear dichotomy, delivering a collection that was as classic as it was futuristic. The designer’s Brave New Fashion World applied Victorian patternmaking techniques to high-tech fabrics. “Reflecting the past, while embracing the future,” according to the program notes, Tia Cibani referenced some central concerns of our times. “She remembered without nostalgia and imagined with anticipation of change. An exhilarating future, in which invention and nature coexist harmoniously, is a vision she nurtures.”

Intricate applications, stunning pattern work, and embellished accents are a mainstay for the Ports 1961 brand. The season’s heavily-skewed militant influence was felt here from the pepper epaulette vest to the militia boot. Architectural lines reinterpreted outerwear and layering pieces as evidenced by the ginger asymmetric coat, the rosemary leather apron dress, and the pepper neoprene jigsaw coat. Pixilated painterly patterns helped to bridge the gap between traditional and unconventional elements.

 

This Ports 1961 Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection possessed a sublime sensibility, that was all at once sculptural and sensual. Embroidered detailing and metalline treatments enhanced the more tactile velveteen and lace components of the collection for a blend of ensembles that was “reconstructed romanticism.” My favorite organic looks included: a ginger knit dress with asymmetric knit cape, motocross glove, and militia boot; the licorice leather hat with mélange cardigan and dress; a rosemary knit dress, leather apron dress, and pepper godiva sandal; the freesia shirt with pepper canvas coat, pepper canvas trouser, and pepper oxford; a tobacco sculpted top with mulberry silk trouser and ginger godiva sandal; and the metalline dress with ginger naess pump.  

Ms. Cibani is known for her brilliant collaborations with award-winning cobblers, jewelers, milliners, and printmakers. For Fall 2010, Julia Lundsten imfused the collection with everything from structured sandals and pumps to whimsical ballet flats and weatherproof wellies. The designer recognized for her trademark sustainable practices elevated the shoes with her architectural inspirations. The presentation’s aesthetic of (the no longer oxymoronic) organic opulence was perhaps best conveyed with the use of accessories such as the chicory wood mosaic necklace, the ceramic and glass pod necklace, and the Perspex collar and cuff. Contemporary jeweler Lina Peterson extracted the inherent beauty of elements found in nature. Millinery designer Annette Becker handcrafted a range of leather headpieces modeled after vintage racing and aviator caps. The subtle Japanese influence of Ritsuko Hirai’s heritage could be felt in the Iris Nuclei, Clover, and Pepper Posie prints. The Rhode Island School of Design (RISD) alumna has a gift for manipulating textiles. She refers to fabric as being, “like water that has the power to transform, wrap, hide, be light like air and be heavy and hard like ice, to bring us higher, to create a balanced space for both nature and us.”

 

While the Ports 1961 Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection solemnly opened with a respectful moment of silence for the late, great Alexander McQueen, the collection’s underlying message of sanguinity shone through. Ports 1961 invited its audience to plant the rosemary seeds gifted with the collection, “as recognition of the opportunities that lie ahead.” The innovative designer predicated her collection on a foundation of accessible optimism—not only overlapping technology and tradition, but also planting a seed of fashion promise…


Images provided by Mercedes Benz Fashion Newsgroup

For additional information, please visit https://www.ports1961.com

 

 

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