“The three-dimensionality of cubism and the curving line of Love, Sex, Money’s comfit define the new bubble dress. Transcending the dress, as a clothing concept, with a synthesis of the fundamental nucleus of volumes, textile research is taken to the furthest limits.” So began Creative Director Lorella Signorino’s program notes for her Fall 2010 Ready-to-Wear Collection. These were the precursory statements that set the stage for what was yet to come.
Shape and texture performed a pas de deux for this runway presentation. Bubble coats, skirts, and dresses were undoubtedly the presentation’s signature silhouette. When luxurious draping, asymmetrical cuts, and voluminous shapes weren’t commanding center stage, more tactile elements revealed another layer of intrigue and passion. Most of this season’s 40 looks incorporated either chunky knits or fur accents. The look of striped fur came from strips of beaver; a veil of pyrite between two layers of organza created pyrite power; wool on laminated backgrounds became three-dimensional boucle; pixilated floral motifs on a gold background gave way to the pixel brocade; a collage of craft stitches formed a new patchwork; and camouflage united with a patchwork for a new portmanteau, the mixoflage.
Varying shades of espresso, mocha, camel, taupe, and beige, predominantly infused the collection with a monochromatic tone-on-tone palette that leant an air of sophistication. While black and grey are compulsory in New York, brown is certainly more prevalent in Italian fashion. Hints of color (rose, burgundy, and pumpkin) and masculine patterns (herringbone, windowpane, and tartan) added yet another layer of interest. Leaf appliqués, ruffles, and sequins gave the collection a sparkling panache. Crocheted rosette statement necklaces, fur-trimmed booties, fox mittens, and stoles of mixed fabrications were the complimenting accessories that enhanced each ensemble.
Standout pieces from the collection included: a camel sweater atop a black skirt with fur patch pockets; a cable knit and silk blended sweater with coordinating skirt; a taupe ¾ length sleeve top paired with an embroidered skirt; a draped top with a soft pink bubble skirt, and fur vest; a rose bubble dress; a cream mini dress with ruched, ruffled side panels; a cropped black jacket with velvet piping and a glittery copper bubble skirt; a fitted, black leather coat with lamb fur collar, cuffs, and hem; and a tweed bubble dress with contrasting plaid side panels and shoulder inserts. Ms. Signorino said that she sought to emphasize the silhouette’s roundness while respecting the clothes’ minimalist lines. From rounded brocade coats with the softly exaggerated proportions of a pannier hip to knitted sheath dresses that molded the body like a second skin, the Love, Sex, Money Fall 2010 Collection not only embraced, but celebrated a woman’s voluptuous curves.
Images provided courtesy of Love, Sex, Money
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