Say you want a revolução?
If you are invited to, well, any event at The Doheny, I insist that you go. It’s one of the hippest, and most exclusive rooms on LA’s Cocktail Culture scene. From the hardwood floors to the leather booths, it is the kind of old-school watering hole where you wouldn’t be surprised if Tony Bennett popped by. In addition to the swanky, low-key, early art-deco vibe inside, its outdoor space is a converted green house: two distinct atmospheres contained in one space. And although it‘s an invitation-only spot, it is far from stuffy.
The Doheny - another landmark in LA Cocktail Culture
Wednesday saw The Doheny playing host to a distilling demonstration with Gilles Merlet, Master Distiller for Maison Leblon Cachaça. Yes, an array of cachaça (pronounced ka-SHA-sa) cocktails was offered - by the lovely Maison Leblon Girls - in abundance. However, in addition to the drinks, Monsieur Merlet and Maison Leblon founding partner, Gerard Schweitzer, served up an education in cachaça, making for an evening that was as informative as it was entertaining.
A converted green house serves as The Doheny's outdoor lounge
For those not familiar with the liquor called cachaça, it is sold in the US as “ Brazilian Rum.” This is because both rum and cachaça are distilled from sugar cane. However, if the crowd walked away with one overwhelming impression, it was that cachaça most definitely is not rum.
Maison Leblon Master Distiller, Gilles Merlet (left) and founding partner, Gerard Schweitzer
Distinctions are important to distillers, and it‘s difficult to get the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (or “TTB”) to alter its classification system. Yet the issue isn’t so much commercial as it is a matter of pride and tradition. Distilling itself is, in effect, a craft, even an art form. It is extracting the very essence of whatever is being distilled.
Gerard Schweitzer explains the nuances of the cachaca distilling process
Much of it boils down to regional differences, not only in the vegetable matter from which to make a “mash,” (the fermented material to be distilled) but in the characteristics of the water in different places around the world. For example, one could manufacture a whiskey made of corn and barley in California, but you couldn’t call it “bourbon,” because that classification is specific to the type of whiskey made in Appalachia.
And whiskey is still an incredibly broad category. In fact, for many years in this country, tequila was referred to as “Mexican whiskey.” It took decades for the ATF - which was the governing body for alcohol regulation in the past - to recognize that, just going by flavor alone, what comes from the Blue Agave was miles apart from that which comes from wheat, barley, and/or corn. Cachaça distillers are facing the same uphill battle today.
From the first taste, the difference is apparent. Rum is actually fermented molasses, a byproduct of the sugar cane, whereas cachaça comes from juice directly pressed from the sugar cane.
A snifter of molasses (left) next to a sugar cane press
Perhaps I should have said, “from the first smell.” Monsieur Merlet demonstrated the difference simply by having us compare the scents, in glasses, of molasses and pure sugar cane juice. The scent of the raw molasses was barely detectable, whereas the unadulterated juice of the sugar cane had a vivid, complex quality, as if mixed with a variety of herbs and spices.
Part of a centuries-old craftsman tradition, Maison Leblon employs copper pot stills
We were offered samples of both the single barrel and a blend. Maison Leblon is incredibly smooth in both forms. It’s closer, in flavor, to a fine tequila much more than a rum. And like a good tequila, it can be enjoyed neat, but chilled, with no more garnish than a twist of lime.
When one of the Maison Leblon girls offers you a drink, how can you refuse?
It’s a great mixer, too. Having given samples to renowned mixologists across the country, Maison Leblon was prepared with an arsenal of creative concoctions that truly showed off the quality and versatility of their cachaça. Citrus is always a good go-to, but the martini-style Guava Lava was particularly good. It also mixed seamlessly with champagne, and crème de casis - with a little coconut and nutmeg for garnish.
Hopefully, the efforts of Maison Leblon and the other cachaça distillers will succeed. After all, cachaca is extremely unique - it deserves to stand out. If nothing else, that night at The Doheny educated a few palettes - mine included - and spawned a few more converts to spread the word.
For more information on the Cachaça Revolution, how it's made, and some really great drink recipes - visit lebloncachaca.com.
Published on Nov 15, 2009
