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We were thrilled to be guests at
MK Restaurant for an evening of pairings between several courses prepared at the restaurant, and selected vintages of
Archery Summit wines. We became enthusiasts of
Archery Summit a few years ago, while making the rounds of Oregon wineries during a visit to Portland, when it was recommended to us by another winery in the area. On our arrival at
Archery Summit, we were proudly told of the history of the vineyards and their specialization in Pinot Noirs, and—though we are neophytes when it comes to wine and rarely venture beyond a $20 dollar a bottle price point—we were so blown away by the wine tasting that we joined their wine club, called the “
A-list.” When we got an invitation, announcing the evening of pairings at
MK, we jumped at the chance to cover it for Splash Magazine. Participating in a fine dining experience that included something we feel passionate about, and then bringing to the attention of a wider audience? What could be better?
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Archery Summit Oregon Pinot Noir wines
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The event was held in the restaurant’s upstairs private dining room, with close to fifty people, many of them A-listers, buzzing with anticipation. With a wide expanse of windows, and large paintings in warm earth tones on the wall, the room was intimate and relaxing. The combinations of food and wine, five throughout the course evening, highlighted both the wine and the restaurant’s astute pairing expertise.
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wine enthusiasts at our table
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Tables seated eight, so we had a chance to compare notes with the other guests, which was a great part of the fun – everyone at the table seemed to favor different wines, and as passionately as we did. We were seating at a table with two couples, Henry and Sue, and Paul and Christine, and two women who were wine distributors, Vicky and Paula. Henry, Sue, Paul and Christine were serious aficionados, and have made numerous trips both nationally and internationally. Henry and Sue were planning a two trip to Oregon over the summer, and Paul was planning to visit wineries in South America. We were delighted when they agreed to share their responses.
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Prosciutto with yellow wax beans, arugula, red wine vinaigrette and pine nuts
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The first course featured Prosciutto with yellow wax beans, arugula, red wine vinaigrette and pine nuts paired with
2006 Archery Summit Premier Cuvee, which is strong, with floral and oaky notes, and a spicy finish (Among the flavors that Archery Summit notes on their web site are black cherries, rose petal, vanilla, pomegranate, currant, mulling spices, anise, juicy plum and clean earth). Henry and Steve agreed that sharpness of the arugula and the salty prosciutto brought out more intense elements and enhanced the richer aspects of the wine, so that it rose above the food on the palate. This wine was a favorite of Vicky and Paula, who liked that the wine was immediately accessible. While we were eating, Chris Nagy, the Archery Summit representative, explained that the winery takes a literal hands-on approach to winemaking, and focuses on the soil and hand-cultivation of the vines. They also use biodynamic farming techniques, and are a 100% gravity-flow winery, meaning that each phase is downhill from the previous one, ensuring that pumps aren’t necessary.
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Copper River Sockeye Salmon with fava beans, new potatoes, baby carrots & salsa verde
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The next course, Copper River Sockeye Salmon with fava beans, new potatoes, baby carrots & salsa verde, was paired with the
2001 Arcus Estate, a bright fruity wine with a citrusy tone. The salmon, with a spicy pepper/cumin rub, tended to push the flavor of the wine back on the tongue, emphasizing the elements of currant. The pairing highlighted the versatility of the Arcus, with a complex array of flavors that was a distinct element of the meal rather than simply a complement to the entrée. During this course, Henry enthused about the wine, his favorite, and told us how he and Paul had discovered Archery Summit on a wine tasting trip to the
Willamette Valley last summer, and, much as we had, found themselves captivated by it. Sue also likes this wine, and thought the pairing with the salmon was excellent. She and Henry said they enjoy this wine with most everything, but that it especially goes well with dishes that are heavier, or more seasoned. Vicky and Paula found it a complex wine that opens up a bit over time, but worth the wait. We all felt that the salmon was an excellent pairing. A few at the table lamented that we had to move on to the next course.
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roast Berkshire pork tenderloin with morel mushrooms
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The following course, a roast Berkshire pork tenderloin with morel mushrooms, snap peas, and lemon thyme, was paired with the 2003 Renegade Ridge Estate, a robust, full-bodied wine which was appropriately toned down a bit by the earthiness of the morels, but which in turn brought out a pleasant surprise - a spicy follow on the back of the tongue. While the first two food pairings seemed to provide a “bed” for the wine, this pairing emphasized the Renegade’s ability to stand up to the strong flavors of roasted meat. The
Renegade Ridge was our favorite, as well as Paul and Christine’s. Henry told us during this course that Sue had “converted” him to Pinot Noirs. We thought this was an apt way of describing the discovery process associated with wine tasting, and how it can lead to an emotional bond, as much as a sensory one. Archery Summit relies on this type of personal bond to their product, and their spring and fall allocations are highly anticipated by their fans.
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Renegade Ridge Pinot Noir
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The meal closed with a cabot clothbound cheddar, salted almonds, raisins dried on the branch, and chocolate truffles, paired with the
2006 Dundee Estate, a stand in for the
Red Hills Estate, which is similar. We had discovered the pleasure of pairing the Red Hills Estate berry tones with chocolate previously, but the cheese and raisins teased out some other, subtly smoky elements of the wine and enhanced the chocolate’s explosive sweetness. The entire table enjoyed the range of flavors and textures, and the Dundee Estate, smooth without being overwhelming, was an excellent choice to close the meal. This is truly a wine that you could bring onto the porch in the evening, and savor with cheese and crackers.
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cabot clothbound cheddar, salted almonds, raisins dried on the branch
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As we all rose to depart, flush with the warmth and addled wooziness that four glasses of wine provides, there seemed to be a hesitation in the room, as if no one quite wanted the shared experience of excellent food and outstanding wine to end. The perceptions of wine tasting as an elitist pastime are so common that they are a cliché, most effectively parodied on television episodes of Frasier and the movie “Sideways”, but, as we learned through the course of the evening, the reality of oenophiles is more a profile of discovery—or, as Henry described it—conversion—than elitism. Wine is an acquired taste, and it is the possibility of an uncovering a hidden gem—stumbling on a winery that you haven’t heard of before, finding great wine at an unhyped, out-of-the way place, trying a new vintage from a place that is prone to experimentation—that leads to an emotional bond. We had the comfort of knowing that one result of this Archery Summit tour is that we’ll be seeing it on the wine lists of more fine restaurants in Chicago soon, and perhaps that more people will be able to experience the joy of discovery.
Archery Summit Farming Techniques (from their web site)
“Archery Summit focuses exclusively on estate vineyards, which gives us full control over how the land is farmed. We’re constantly searching for the best combination of plant, soil and cultivation techniques at each vineyard. Our clones are site-selected and we plant densely, coaxing vertically trellised vines to produce fewer clusters that bear small, intensely flavorful grapes. After fruit set, we will again sacrifice quantity for improved fruit quality by further reducing yields. During the growing season, hand-management of the canopy is key; it’s the only way to ensure every cluster receives optimal exposure to air and sunlight. In most vineyards, fruit is grown at chest height for ease of harvest, yet we train ours to grow closer to the warm soil—another practice that leads to more flavorful fruit. This kind of farming requires a tremendous commitment, one we make without hesitation.”
Archery Summit Winery: http://www.archerysummit.com
18599 N.E. Archery Summit Rd
Dayton OR 97114
Phone: 503.864.4300
Join the A-list: http://www.archerysummitlist.com/mailinglist/
A-Listers get first crack at new allocations and access to wines that aren’t provided for retail distribution.
MK restaurant
http://www.mkchicago.com
Biodynamic farming: http://www.biodynamics.com/biodynamics.html
Photos: Jackie Bookman
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