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Tucked away in a low-slung building in a nondescript corner of
Logan Square,
Bonsoiree offers a creative feast for the senses in a remarkably casual, BYOB environment. We had dinner in the open-air courtyard, with two moderately priced bottles of wine (Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir). Alternating between red and white wines during the eclectic courses provided additional variety to an inventive menu framed with spectacular presentations.
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Bonsoiree's modest facade
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Chefs Shin Thompson and
Luke Creagan use color and serving dishes to present the courses as visual art, not just culinary experiments, and the overall experience is akin to a gastronomic spa treatment. Shin told us that he travels around the world, and particularly to Japan, searching for unique dishes. Japan also had a culinary influence on his work, as he visits often, and has received culinary advice from some of the highest-rated chefs in Japan.
The dinner is served as a “tasting menu,” with the same dishes brought to all members of the dining party.
Bonsoiree is currently offering three tasting menus: a four course, seven course and thirteen course chef’s tasting.
Our server, Ryan, was attentive, both to bringing courses and making sure our wine glasses were full, and in making sure to answer any questions we had about preparation or ingredients.
The dinner started with a delightful “amuse sashimi,” yellowtail topped with wasabi root, masago, and sesame dust, and served on a sharkskin grater, one of the utensils that
Shin brought back from a trip to Japan. The grater’s usual purpose is to grate ginger, and the presentation intrigued and delighted us. We spent a few minutes admiring it, and wondering where we could get a similar grater, before eating this course. The sashimi is ingested whole, arousing multiple complementary areas of the palate at once. This set the tone for the meal.
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amuse sashimi on sharkskin grater
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The sashimi was followed by a shaved-cucumber salad, which was served in a beautiful bowl—which we would have sworn was wood, but turned out to be made of carbon fibers that had been laquered. This was another dish where the presentation delighted us almost as much as the food. The cucumber is served in strips that resembled fettucine, doused in a truffled verjus vinagrette, giving the dish a slightly tart flavor. The salad was served with bacon cubes—meat as a condiment, asian-style, but also humorously reminiscent of croutons—which brought a smoky, savory balance to the dish, which aroused tastebuds on both the front and the back of the tongue. The salad was served with chopsticks, as were several of the courses.
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shaved-cucumber salad in a truffled verjus vinagrette
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A sushi-grade sea scallop, prepared with celery root, scallions and ponzu aioli, torched directly to the shell it is served on, and garnished with carrot strips, offered several layers of flavor and texture. We tasted hints of citrus, the spiciness of Japanese chili, followed by the creaminess of the scallop and aioli. This was a favorite of the entire table.
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sea scallop with ponzu aioli
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One of the standout spectacles of the dinner came next, smoked baby octopus served with a rhubarb gravlax (rhubarb cured with salt, sugar and dill), and a sake glaze that was infused with rhubarb. The dish was served in a Jubako box, which emanated a smoky aroma when opened—the remnants of green-tea smoke forced into the box, which lightly flavored the custard sauce that dappled the octopus and the sweet yellow beet rings that garnished it. The octopus was slow-poached for two hours, and, when served, was more tender than sushi. Even those who didn’t normally like octopus thought this dish was delicious.
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smoked baby octopus with rhubarb gravlax and sake glaze
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The presentations at
Bonsoiree borrow heavily from
Japanese tradition (think sushi), while some courses are baseline-French in technique. However, calling this "fusion" sells it short. The inventiveness with which the dishes are presented enhances the cultural combinations, and the playful, exploratory nature of the meal.
Chef Creagan humorously referred to a stellar course, which included foie-gras, duck confit and duck breast, served in a rhombus-shaped bento box, as "duck-duck-goose."
Chef Thompson at one point whispered conspiratorially, "Are you having fun?"
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"duck-duck-goose" (duck breast, duck confit, foie gras)
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The lack of foodie pretension was also evident with a course that included a miso-based broth with Prince Edward Island mussels, and slivers of ramp. On the side was a piquant kumquat brulee, and a panko-encrusted dauphine potato. "There is no 'correct' way to eat this,” we were assured. Dunking, eating in one bite, and savoring were all allowed.
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miso-based broth with mussels, slivers of ramp, kumquat brulee, and panko-encrusted dauphine potato
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A red grouper in roasted yellow tomato nage, with globe artichokes, faro, roasted and cattail shoots, was another dish with several layers of flavor. The faro, Tuscan wheat grain, added a pleasant texture to the dish. The tomato nage was both citrusy and smoky, and a hint of paprika oil gave it a spicy follow. While each element of the sauce was distinct, it was still delicate enough that it didn’t overpower the taste of the roasted fish.
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red grouper in yellow tomato nage
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Service was methodical and relaxed, allowing us plenty of time to savor the courses and try each of them with both the red and white wine. We found to our surprise, that some combinations were an unexpected delight—savory lamb sausages with panko breading and wasabi “death mustard” complemented the crispness of the pinot grigio, and the pinot noir brought out the spicier notes in the grouper. Bonsoiree touts itself as a "Revolution in BYOB" and indeed the casual atmosphere inspired a kind of carefree experimentation and enjoyment that unfortunately is not always the norm in fine dining establishments.
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lamb sausages with panko breading and “death mustard”
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A carbonated "float" with vanilla yogurt and puree of berries, pineapple and citrus juice, served in a large shot glass, cleared the palate more effectively than any typical sorbet, and perfectly prepared us for the meal's finale -- a brownie made with graham crackers, served with a light mint whip cream and a zesty smear of rich caramel flavored with spices from North Africa. A shot of espresso paired well with this sweet trifle.
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graham cracker brownie with mint whip cream and caramel
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The chef's approach allowed us each to explore our palates, and we were each able to decide on our favorites. While the moderate pace allowed our conversation to wander, it was pleasant to note that we drifted back frequently to the textures and aromas of the meal, which provided an unparalleled adventure for all the senses. Dinner at Bonsoiree is an immersive endeavor that shouldn't be rushed, so prepare to pamper yourself and make a reservation for an enchanting evening.
At
Bonsoiree, plan on a leisurely, relaxed dining experience, that will typically take 1.5 to 2.5 hours, depending on your pace, and around 3.5 hours for the 13 course meal.
Reservations are required, and there is typically a 1-4 week wait for weekdays, and 1 month for weekends.
Hours: Tuesday – Saturday 5pm-10pm
Location: 2728 W. Armitage Ave, Chicago, IL, 60647
Phone: 773-486-7511
Website: http://www.bon-soiree.com
Email: shin@bon-soiree.com, luke@bon-soiree.com
Catering: Bonsoiree also offers custom catering for small to large events. More information is provided at: http://www.bon-soiree.com/catering.html.
Photos: Jackie Bookman
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